Screwing into exterior insulation

[StephenOak]

the steel has alot of bending moment

Hmm. More than a block of wood, I don't know about "a lot".

Is it enough to make a practical difference? If so then maybe go up a size or two in steel rod. I linked to 6mm ones as that is what I used but they easily come in sizes up to 24mm.

 

[phatboy]

When I was fixing an awning through 90mm of external insulation, I used M10 threaded rod, with an M10 shield anchor.

Drilled hole
Attached rod to shield anchor fully
Fitted 2 nuts onto the rod, against the shield anchor, and tighten them against each other
Lock 2 more nuts together at the far end of the rod, and align the bolts, so a deep socket can fit over
Push it all into the wall, to a measured depth so I knew the entire shield anchor was inside the wall, then tighten it using the a deep socket over the end nuts.
Once done, the 2 nuts at the end can be removed, and fittings put over the bolt.

 

[opps]

When I was fixing an awning through 90mm of external insulation, I used M10 threaded rod, with an M10 shield anchor.

Drilled hole
Attached rod to shield anchor fully
Fitted 2 nuts onto the rod, against the shield anchor, and tighten them against each other
Lock 2 more nuts together at the far end of the rod, and align the bolts, so a deep socket can fit over
Push it all into the wall, to a measured depth so I knew the entire shield anchor was inside the wall, then tighten it using the a deep socket over the end nuts.
Once done, the 2 nuts at the end can be removed, and fittings put over the bolt.

I am just thinking aloud here, but... if you used 90mm worth of depth of nuts, does that mean the M10 will be unable to bend downwards in the insulation. In my thinking you have now increased the thickness of the rod in the insulation to 16(?)mm

 

[phatboy]

I am just thinking aloud here, but... if you used 90mm worth of depth of nuts, does that mean the M10 will be unable to bend downwards in the insulation. In my thinking you have now increased the thickness of the rod in the insulation to 16(?)mm

No no, 2 nuts against the shield anchor, 2 more temporary fitted to the far end of the rod make it possible to tighten the anchor. No other nuts involved.

 

[morqthana]

Hey there. Im looking to build a sheltered area between my back door and the back gate. I'd need to attach battoning to my wall, however it is covered in external insulation, and sounds hollow all over. Has anyone done anything like this and is there anything specific I need to do? My main concern is the load bearing on the insulation, there is a rail attached to the front of the house and that's using 120mm wall plugs, and seems stable enough.

What did you do in the end? Have you done it yet?

Could you put vertical timbers in places, touching the ground, so that most of the "real" load is transmitted straight down, rather than into the insulation?

 

[FishAreFriends]

What did you do in the end? Have you done it yet?

Could you put vertical timbers in places, touching the ground, so that most of the "real" load is transmitted straight down, rather than into the insulation?

I haven't done it yet, I chickened out. You're idea is what I was leaning to (pun intended), having something that is freestanding but bolted into the concrete floor and attached to the wall for stability.

 

[morqthana]

You could probably blag swifix's idea, and at a lot less expense just insert a length of heavy duty PVC conduit. All the Swifix product does is to give the fixings something to tighten onto without crushing the insulation and cracking the render - the tube carries the compression force through to the substrate.

As you'll have timber battens you'll probably be fine without the neoprene washer and flange. The screw will pull the batten onto one end of the conduit, and the other end of the conduit onto the wall.