Second heat source after underfloor heating

How long have you had the underfloor switched on for each 24 hr period? Reading between the lines it seems like you might be trying to operate it like radiators!
 
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I have comfort temp of 21deg and lower temp of 18deg.

It's set from 630am to 1130am and 1530 to 2030 at 21deg and 18deg otherwise.

When outside temps are 10deg+ target temps are reached.

On colder days I ran it solid from 630am to 2030pm and it never got above 18deg.
 
If it was mine, I’d lift the floor, remove the wood, add more screed and change covering. Alternatively after removing wood, sort the floor as mentioned previously.

snb makes a valid point about how you are running the system.

I have mine set to 18/19°, then at 10pm the fallback to 15° Until 5am where it’s target is back to 18° Again.

On more mild days, the floor comes on in in the morning once a day, as it gets colder, it may do a fire up in the evening (short one). I don’t turn it off until say spring time... but if the target temp is reached, then it sorts itself out anyway.


I realise you’ve got a fair bit of donkey work to do... and as previously suggested I think the small claims court maybe an option... reluctantly I know.
 
@Mr Chibs on some of the colder days it has been set to demand 21deg room temp from 6am to 10pm but the room temp never rises abovr 18deg. I don't think the timer is the issue!

Once the builders left I had £3.5K worth of Karndean fitted. Given the underfloor is functioning but just short of output the most cost effective solution has to be adding a heat source rather than thousands ripping this all up again to marginally improve it's performance.
 
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I bought an infra red thermometer and I am getting 22-24deg at the surface which doesn't seem too far off the mark as Karndean max is 27deg.

It suggests to me the bigger problem is the heat leakage of three external walls and vaulted ceiling than the wood in the floor???
 
I bought an infra red thermometer and I am getting 22-24deg at the surface which doesn't seem too far off the mark as Karndean max is 27deg.

It suggests to me the bigger problem is the heat leakage of three external walls and vaulted ceiling than the wood in the floor???
Which is why this thread keeps suggesting you do a heat balance check on the building.
 
@BlueLoo yes I know you have suggested this, I'm doing my best!

I've asked another forum member who is a fitter if he can run calcs but in the mean time using an online heat loss calc it suggests I need approx 4000W

I don't know how to calculate what I'm getting from my underfloor though?

Secondary to this I'm going to run a test on the next cold day by running my 1500W electric fireplace to see if this is enough supplementary heat to warm the room effectively.

I am trying here!!
 
Does the heating system paperwork not state the output?
 
I spoke to the builder and he just replied that the underfloor fitter was highly reputable.

To be honest the underfloor heating does seem very professionally fitted, although I have my doubts any heat loss calcs were done.

Floor temps are reading 23-24deg today so despite the chipboard/ply I don't think that's the big issue.

The room simply leaks more heat than the underfloor produces when it's cold outside, so a secondary source of heat may be needed for those occasions.
 

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