Securing badly split ceiling beam.

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Note horizontal crack on lower beam. Any suggestions on how best to make this secure? Wondering if I should get a structural engineer in to advise but it's all extra expense of course
 
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Steel or ply nailed across each side, the depth of the beam. But if it's visible, it will be ugly.

The alternative is to insert bars diagonally through the beam. This is specialist design though.

 
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I don't think so. Steel bars are secured with resin into drilled holes. But they need to take care to do it correctly.

An engineer will need to work out the bars and spacing though.

This is typical conservation repair, so perhaps people experienced in that should be approached.
 
I'd go for bolting through, personally......using something like 12mm threaded bar from Wickes etc, but drilling a counterbored hole first to take large washers plus the nut. It would be interesting to see if the beam takes up when the nuts are tightened.
What's above the beam - flooring?
John :)
 
Easy enough to lift up then, to give you access to the beam?
Whatever repair is finally done, its best to have access all round.
John :)
 
First thing I'd ask is why has it split like that?
Removal of support below the beam? Added load above? Or simply inadequate in the first place?
I'm no structural engineer, but there doesn't seem much point in just repairing a beam which is already too weak for the loading on it.
 
The cottage dates back to about 1750 so wear and tear? There is a bedroom above. There has definitely been no wall removed. This is the beam closest to the fire and the fact that the cottage has been barely used and poorly maintained over 25 years cant help.
Thanks for the various suggestions. I think I will have to get a structural engineer out to advise.
 
Old beams do crack ( de-laminate ) over time.

Looking at your beam I would hazard a guess that the lower section on which the joists are resting is more than adequate to take the weight and dynamic load of a bedroom floor.

In the old days beams and joists were over sized for the loads unlike today where for cost reasons the smallest section possible is used.

You could try measuring the deflection of the beam when the floor above is loaded with normal and then excessive loads. If the deflection is within limits then there is no need to do anything. The split adds charactor to the room and creates a talking point.

I do not know what the limit on deflection would be. It depends on several things but organisation like SPAB or TRADA ( Timber Research and Development Association ) should be able to adviise you.

The only worry would be if that lower section was also de-laminating.

I think the notches for the joists and changes in humidity ( central heating being installed maybe ) created stresses in the beam between the notches and that led to that large crack opening up.
 
If the deflection is within limits then there is no need to do anything. The split adds charactor to the room and creates a talking point.
Well it certainly will be a talking point if it collapses :eek: But thanks for that. Have not moved in yet as major works still in progress including potential woodworm treatment. But I'm a bit afraid of putting furniture up there at the mo :(
 

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