Selecting the right Texecom

[secureiam]

I would say there is more pluses for having the panel and expander separate than having them combined.

Ricochet does bounce from one detector to another 3 hops, but if the system is hopping, say lots through one device then that device battery may run down rather quick.

Ideally the wireless expander is in a centralish location (however depends on the layout and construction being able to move the expander makes life easier),

I am not a fan of the PW, but each to there own.

 

[CaptainJack88]

With there only being £12 in it, getting the 48 and the expander seems like the logical option, plus the sensors seem better too?

The current location of the control panel is under the stairs which is right in the middle of the house, which means all the sensors are wiling 5 meters of the control panel anyway (through walls, and excluding the out building ones)

The only thing with relocating the expander would be that new cable would need to be fitted which would be extremely difficult, not to mention that there isn't really anywhere else the expander could go.

Just a note regarding the sensors.
Are the vibration and contact sensors the right type for french doors and bay french doors?
Are the vibration sensors the right type for windows, and should I back this up with a PIR?

 

[secureiam]

To be fair, this only becomes a necessity if there serious issue with the signal with the expander to the devices.

If you have the separate expander, you only have to sort out 1 cable from the panels network/bus to the wireless expander rather than move the entire panel. to try and improve, but you would need some serious things blocking, like foil plasterboard, Fridge, steel work near the expander to hinder the signal or medieval castle walls that are 1meter thick.

Most domestics wont have major issues, I know of commercial sites with mutipul 32xp-w's in various building that have no problems covering large distances, if you plan it out properly there's a fair chance it be trouble free from setup.

If you think of mutipul lines coming from the expander going to your wireless device, what does the line cross.

I can take you to homes were metal mesh has been placed in the wall and plastered over, or an RSJ placed to open up an area and remove a supporting wall, putting a wireless detector in that location is going to dampen its wireless capability but that's something you cant always see, however lots of RSJ's end up below the ceiling and you can see exactly where they are.

 

[CaptainJack88]

It's a solid walled house, however there is an RSJ nearby where 2 of the contact/shock sensors would be near, however we're talking within 3 meters of the control panel.

Before I go ahead and order this, what type of sensors, how many and where would you place them on these type of door/windows? I've got down the Wireless Contact & Shock sensors with 1 on each half of the door. I was thinking about this though, and both sensors would need to be located at the top where the door joins. This makes sense for the contact part, however I can't see it making much different with the shock sensor bit? Since each door cannot be opened independently (need to have right door open to open the left) is it worth only putting 1 sensor here, or won't the shock cover it?

Note: our setup doesn't have Georgian bars, they're full height glass panes

 

[secureiam]

Depending on how close they are to the rsj it could significantly affect there signal strength, at 3 m away from the panel you may be okay if they devices are sat on the rsj (I would give myself at least 1 foot clearance before temporary installing a device to ee what signal is like, which isn't much. Texecom recommend 1m about 3ft 3 inches).

In places where you think it may be bad, don't screw the device down to start with, learn it on, fix it temporary do your readings and then make a decision.

As for sensors and where to place them, shock sensors is all about vibration, if your doors rattle when its windy then I wouldn't bother, if it requires a firm hand to make them vibrate a little then you have a fighting chance of genuine activations if some uses a little force to try and gain access.

Shocks can be adjusted but like everything there are limitations

 

[CaptainJack88]

Depending on how close they are to the rsj it could significantly affect there signal strength, at 3 m away from the panel you may be okay if they devices are sat on the rsj (I would give myself at least 1 foot clearance before temporary installing a device to ee what signal is like, which isn't much. Texecom recommend 1m about 3ft 3 inches).

In places where you think it may be bad, don't screw the device down to start with, learn it on, fix it temporary do your readings and then make a decision.

As for sensors and where to place them, shock sensors is all about vibration, if your doors rattle when its windy then I wouldn't bother, if it requires a firm hand to make them vibrate a little then you have a fighting chance of genuine activations if some uses a little force to try and gain access.

Shocks can be adjusted but like everything there are limitations

Thanks. It seems like the best option here then would be for just 1 door/shock sensor, and then something to cover the glass. Perhaps a PIR?

The frame and windows itself don't move at all, so the shock probably wouldn't do a great deal on its own

 

[Europlex]

'Shock' sensors are designed to activate in answer to 'high frequency' vibration, breaking glass, hammering of walls, splintering of wood etc, NOT a thump with a fist or the opening of a door.

 

[CaptainJack88]

Depending on how close they are to the rsj it could significantly affect there signal strength, at 3 m away from the panel you may be okay if they devices are sat on the rsj (I would give myself at least 1 foot clearance before temporary installing a device to ee what signal is like, which isn't much. Texecom recommend 1m about 3ft 3 inches).

In places where you think it may be bad, don't screw the device down to start with, learn it on, fix it temporary do your readings and then make a decision.

As for sensors and where to place them, shock sensors is all about vibration, if your doors rattle when its windy then I wouldn't bother, if it requires a firm hand to make them vibrate a little then you have a fighting chance of genuine activations if some uses a little force to try and gain access.

Shocks can be adjusted but like everything there are limitations

Thanks. It seems like the best option here then would be for just 1 door/shock sensor, and then something to cover the glass. Perhaps a PIR?

The frame and windows itself don't move at all, so the shock probably wouldn't do a great deal on its own

'Shock' sensors are designed to activate in answer to 'high frequency' vibration, breaking glass, hammering of walls, splintering of wood etc, NOT a thump with a fist or the opening of a door.

So then what's the difference between a shock sensor and a break glass?

I am looking at this sensor for the doors and windows:
http://www.cctvcentral.co.uk/texeco...-impaq-plus-w-shock-sensor-gbb-0001-904-p.asp

 

[bernardgreen]

My understanding is that "shock" sensors react if they are suddenly moved more than a couple of milli metres and break glass react to the vibrations and / or sounds of breaking glass.

 

[CaptainJack88]

My understanding is that "shock" sensors react if they are suddenly moved more than a couple of milli metres and break glass react to the vibrations and / or sounds of breaking glass.

That's what I thought too. So the one I linked above would go on a door. The contacts are use for the door opening, and the shock for if someone tries barging the door down

 

[Nintendofan]

My understanding is that "shock" sensors react if they are suddenly moved more than a couple of milli metres and break glass react to the vibrations and / or sounds of breaking glass.

That's what I thought too. So the one I linked above would go on a door. The contacts are use for the door opening, and the shock for if someone tries barging the door down

See the technical bunf here http://www.texe.com/uk/uploads/ImpaqSeries_LIT0021-2.pdf

I have just one Texecom Ipaq shock on a bathroom windows (as a pir was a no go for that area) if you thump the frame with your fist it is not detected but if you gently tap the frame with the tip of a screw driver it detects it straight away, take that as you will.

 

[CaptainJack88]

My understanding is that "shock" sensors react if they are suddenly moved more than a couple of milli metres and break glass react to the vibrations and / or sounds of breaking glass.

That's what I thought too. So the one I linked above would go on a door. The contacts are use for the door opening, and the shock for if someone tries barging the door down

See the technical bunf here http://www.texe.com/uk/uploads/ImpaqSeries_LIT0021-2.pdf

I have just one Texecom Ipaq shock on a bathroom windows (as a pir was a no go for that area) if you thump the frame with your fist it is not detected but if you gently tap the frame with the tip of a screw driver it detects it straight away, take that as you will.

Interesting. I guess it's the type of detection then so it's not going to trigger the alarm should a kid kick a ball against it, however if it detected a crowbar scraping or the glass smashing, it would go off.

A dedicated glass break sensor would just listen for the frequency of breaking glass, but it's not dependant on one window.

 

[secureiam]

depends on the setting of the shock sensor and how solid the door / window is. as to what activity will set the shock off.

glass breaks usually work as two stages a thud then a break, this is to emulate the glass being hit and then breaking rather than the glass being dropped, never been found of them mind.

The glass break can cover a much larger area though.