Servowarm Supreme Central Heating

I think you need to do some more study.

All past and the present back boilers are heat only and need a cylinder.

The flue is plastic and coaxial and not that cheap either. The only advantage they have is to save disturbance to existing decoration/pipework. But because of the flue they are not a cheap option.

Its cheaper to have a heat only ( or combi ) boiler elsewhere where it can be flued straight out throught the wall behind the boiler.

Tony
 
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had a quick look for the cost of the flu got quoted around £300 which doesn't seem too bad, don't realy understand the need for a cylinder though , niether the servowarm boiler, or the solid fuel back boiler that preceded it had one, surely its just an option that it can have? also i notice the options for the fire front all seem to be electric, is this to give easy access to the boiler or can i have a gas fire of my choice fitted in front it.? many thanks for taking the trouble to answer my qustions, it helps formulate what the plan of action will be,.although most dismiss the supreme as a peice of junk it has been very reliable/effective over its long life and if i could, would have no hesitation in replacing it with the same, i really think the boiler manufacturers have missed a hole in the market.
 
The condensing back boilers are not compatible with gas fires. You almost certainly do have a hot water cylinder somewhere, unless you have a separate multipoint water heater. It seems to me that you need some advice from a pro.
 
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well with the bombshell that i can't put a gas fire in front of the baxi condensing boiler, now looking at replacing the supreme with a viessman vitodens 100 compact, at 600 X375x285 it would sit snugly in the corner, (where the servowarm supreme is and vent straight outside, though anyone know of a smaller heat only boiler? smaller would be better.
 
Be aware that you need about 200mm below and another 200mm above the Viess 100 OV for the pipes and flue.

In Telford where Viess are based they have this quite good Indian restaurant where you can take your own wine.

Tony
 
You need 250mm on top, but only enough room underneath to access the downward-facing case screws. The gas inlet and condensate drain can disappear in the depth of the underskirt.
 
thanks for that, the extra height does make it slightly less attractive, i guess the lower on the wall you fit it the more fiddly it will be for the installer,just depends what he's willing to do, the main attraction is the 285mm depth which is only about 100mm deeper than the supreme, and would easily have cupboard built across its alcove and probably a few book shelves over the top disguising it completely. i think the viessman's still the front runner
 
If you fit the pipe connection under the flue pipe, or if the flue pipe is to go to one side then you can reduce the manufacturer's advised 250 mm to less that 200mm.

Furthermore, if whatever is above can be removed, you can reduce it considerably as the extra height is only required in the unlikely event that the flue elbow has to be moved upwards to remove it.

Tony
 
thanks tony .the flu will go to one side and the cupboard will be built around it so that if required can be dismantled easily, found a couple of alternative boilers gloworm flexicom at 280mm deep, and worcester bosch greenstar 24ri at 270mm, the boiler manufacturers obviously don't think the customer is particularly interested in the dimensions as they seem to add it to their blurb as an afterthought making it quite slow to find.
 
Whilst the Flexicom is one of the very few boilers with a rear flue exit generally its not well liked by installers.

The manufacturers go to considerable trouble to make ntheir boilers attractive yet some people just want to box them in.

The smaller a boiler is made, the more difficult it is to maintain/repair!

Tony
 
Hi,
Interesting reading all the comments about Servowarm. Joining in because I my system has just started causing me a bit of grief. The timer on my system is set into the boiler wood surround and has a tappet type dial. Also in the same cluster of components are a manual advance knob, a program selector switch, the bolier thermostat control and a thermometer. My problem is that the dial has developed a wabble causing one of the tappets to miss the switching mechanism which is rather annoying. I appreciate all the advice regarding the safety aspects of these old systems and the suggestions that they be ripped out but I would like to repair it if possible. I determined that the timer was probably supplied to Servowarm by Horstmann but they have been unable to help as the timer became obsolete about 20years ago! Anybody know how the dial is secured to the timer, or has anybody got a scrapper tucked away?
I look forward to some comical replies.
 
Since a programmable thermostat does so much more and prices start at only £20 then it would be a very odd person who wanted to repair an outdated timeclock.
 
The question seems to imply some complication.

Its only a two wire connection across the room stat connection points ( if any, or to replace the timeclock ).

Thats assuming you have very basic ability to do simple wiring. Otherwise get it done by a competent person.

Tony
 

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