Setting datum line for kitchen

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I was planning on following this as guide for my heights.
777B414C-9F22-4276-AD0A-41ACE67640C0.png

I’ve been reading that I should set my laser level at the cabinet height of 870 when measured from the highest point of the kitchen.

If there is significant slop in the kitchen, I assume I can end up with a plinth gap exceeding 15cm? I assume I can get away with a certain amount as the top of the plinth isn’t visible unless you are kneeling down and looking at that level. Is that the general thinking and based on this how much tolerance do I have?

Thanks in advance
 
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It depends what you call 'significant'. My kitchen is 6m long and has a height variation of around 12mm along the line of the plinth with a bare floor. I found the low point, marked it then took that as my reference point. I then allowed for the height of my floor covering minus an extra 3mm. The 3mm to be trimmed off the bottom of the plinth. I then set the rest of the kitchen units to that level.

I got it all fixed and adjusted perfectly level with a water gauge, then laid the floor covering (laminate), finally I trimmed and fitted the plinth sections, water sealing all the cut edges. The worktop rear edges likewise needed to be trimmed, to fit the wall and again - all cut edges water sealed.
 
Mark some levels around and see what's going on with the floor. Split the difference if need be depending on the levels and layout - for instance you don't want to level from a single relatively unseen high point and create more work or visual gaps at more prominent parts of the run or on return angles.

Consider window cills, wall units, tile sizes etc when working out the counter height.
 
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I don't have a very long run at all but wanted to understand this principle for a kitchen I will be fitting at my parents.

As well as the below I have a couple of units on a different wall and I will be using a laser level to consider all the levels and then set a consistent datum point.

upload_2020-9-12_9-52-15.png


I've noted from @Harry Bloomfield and @^woody^ posts that in some instances I may need to split the difference but generally speaking, how much can I get away with by having the gap at the top of the plinth?

@Harry Bloomfield did you also scribe the plinth in your situation?
 
@Harry Bloomfield did you also scribe the plinth in your situation?

Once the floor covering was in place, I simply measured up the height gap, measured the horizontal position of the gap, then transferred that on to the lower edge of the plinth board. I then marked up with a straight edge linking those marks.

I'm fitting a some new flooring to the kitchen, over the coming week, so likely my plinth may need some adjustment.
 
If it's the floor being out slightly that's the problem do you have enough play to put some floor levelling compound down to try and reduce the need for cutting the plinth ?
 
This suggests that my plinth gap should never exceed 14cm and for a sloppy floor, there would always be a cut to the plinth.
so you don’t want a gap but you don’t want to trim the plinth either?
worktop thicknesses vary between 25-50mm , so 870mm is merely a suggested height. 10-15mm either way to allow for your uneven floor and plinth fitting won’t make a difference.
 
so you don’t want a gap but you don’t want to trim the plinth either?
Before posting, I thought I may be advised that it’s fine to have 1-2cm gap as that won’t be easily visible.

I doubt it will be an issue with my very short run on this occasion but wanted to understand this for the next time
 
Before posting, I thought I may be advised that it’s fine to have 1-2cm gap as that won’t be easily visible.

I doubt it will be an issue with my very short run on this occasion but wanted to understand this for the next time

A 10 to 20mm gap would be very noticeable and quite unnecessary. Just set the units perfectly level and at such a height that at the lowest point of the plinth area, the plinth just fits without needing any trimming. Then trim the rest to fit. Difference in plinth heights of 10 to 20mm will not show, but as already suggested - seal the cut edges.
 
no , you’ll be trimming or planing the floor edge. there a plastic trims you can buy to sit over the raw edge which seal and create a nice finish. or.
my preffered method is to chamfer the back edge of the unseen cut so the bare minimum is resting on the floor and just seal with cheap clear silicone.
 

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