Shed light can't see!!!

Dang, I have just been changing our fluorescent lights for LED ones at work and we have not noticed any grinders looking stationary?
Don't tell me I need to put them all back now :)
 
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Be wary of 2d fittings, the replacement tubes are pricey & because of the compact design they run warmer than linear fittings. Common problem we got at work was the lampholder getting brittle and falling to bits (fittings were 10+ yrs old so not a big issue, annoying when the linear fittings on the grid were 30 years old and good as new)
 
LED is better than fluoescent for one reason: they turn on with full brightness immediately in cold conditions.
That is admittedly a big bonus. There's also no strike current which is handy if running from gennie/inverter. If cost was neutral then led wins
 
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Be wary of 2d fittings, the replacement tubes are pricey & because of the compact design they run warmer than linear fittings. Common problem we got at work was the lampholder getting brittle and falling to bits (fittings were 10+ yrs old so not a big issue, annoying when the linear fittings on the grid were 30 years old and good as new)

Replacement 2D tubes are cheap as chips. Lamp holders going brittle usually only happens when they've been left with a tube in for a very long time that's had a starter stuck closed, meaning the cathodes have been glowing orange hot for hundreds of hours, baking the plastic
 
I don't like florescent because of the mercury content, but after trying led's as the main source in the workshop I went back to florescent because unlike led they also bounce light off the ceiling, the led are great above a workbench where you only need downward light.
 
I'd use a Good length LED Batten and not just that paint the "ceiling" white so it will reflect light or use some Radiator reflector foil.
 
Another thing that works surprisingly well is that LED tape fixed to a bit of batten (or the roof timbers if you like). Not sure about price per metre but light output is impressive
 

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