Shed wiring (already connected to mains)

[Poiup]

Before explain all this, I want to point out that two weeks ago I had an electrician carry out an EICR for "peace of mind" to make sure that everything is OK.
The certificate states that the installation is in satisfactory conditions. Once C3 observation stating that the consumer unit is not up to to the latest regulations. However, all circuits are RCD protected so he said that there's no immediate concern.

Coming to my question: there is a SWA cable (2.5mm) that runs from an isolator switch in the house to a shed in the garden. The cable is connected to an outdoor-type socket (see picture below). I would assume that the SWA cable situation is OK given that I have showed it to the electrician and he has not said anything about it.
Now, at the moment there's just a floodlight plugged into it. What I want to do is expand this circuit:

- replace the existing floodlight with an LED one (10W)
- install one more LED floodlight (20W)
- add 2 sockets for general use inside the shed.
- connect everything to the existing socket using a 13A fused plug

All cables inside the shed would run into corrugated conduit. Now... can I just get on with it or is there anything I have not considered?

 

[oceansoul]

Can't get T&E into a plug.

 

[JohnW2]

Can't get T&E into a plug.

Use flexible cable of an appropriate size, then (between plug and your JB).

If you do as you prose, and plug everything into the existing socket, you will, of course, be limited to a maximum total of 13A for everything (including the two new sockets) - would that be adequate for your needs?

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

Can't get T&E into a plug.

funny you should say that:

Tenant say the fence this cable was clipped to has been replaced twice, New owner got this changed straight away, even before the EICR. It was the garage supply.

 

[plugwash]

Can't get T&E into a plug.

I've fitted a number of 13A plugs to 2.5mm² T&E over the years. It's doable but it takes a different technique from normal.

The first part is selecting the plug, generally the most basic plugs work best. You want a plug with removable innards and a conventional cord grip.

The second part is to dismantle the plug, remove one of the cord grip screws completely, loosen the other until the cord grip can be swung completely out of the way. Remove the fuse. Remove the neutral pin, earth pin and fuse clip/live terminal.

Then cut, strip form and terminate the wires, I also used earth sleeving on the earth. Forming the neutral conductor is probably the hardest part, you will likely need to use long nose pliers for this.

Finally drop the innards back into the plug, swing the cord grip back into place and screw it down, put the fuse back in and screw everything together.

Having said that, using plugs to feed fixed wiring is generally considered pretty "rough", is there a reason you don't want to just extend the existing fixed wiring?

 

[SUNRAY]

I've fitted a number of 13A plugs to 2.5mm² T&E over the years. It's doable but it takes a different technique from normal.

The first part is selecting the plug, generally the most basic plugs work best. You want a plug with removable innards and a conventional cord grip.

The second part is to dismantle the plug, remove one of the cord grip screws completely, loosen the other until the cord grip can be swung completely out of the way. Remove the fuse. Remove the neutral pin, earth pin and fuse clip/live terminal.

Then cut, strip form and terminate the wires, I also used earth sleeving on the earth. Forming the neutral conductor is probably the hardest part, you will likely need to use long nose pliers for this.

Finally drop the innards back into the plug, swing the cord grip back into place and screw it down, put the fuse back in and screw everything together.

Having said that, using plugs to feed fixed wiring is generally considered pretty "rough", is there a reason you don't want to just extend the existing fixed wiring?

It's something I 'just got used to doing' as much of my work is temporary.
I find the easiest plugs for T&E are MK with the T&E entering vertically between the gates, after that comes the cheap junk. All the inbetweenies like duraplug are more difficult with their fixed pins and moulded wire routes.

 

[JohnW2]

I've fitted a number of 13A plugs to 2.5mm² T&E over the years. It's doable but it takes a different technique from normal.

Same here, but I wouldn't recommend it, and couyld very rarely (if ever!) 'justify' doing it!

Then cut, strip form and terminate the wires, I also used earth sleeving on the earth. Forming the neutral conductor is probably the hardest part, you will likely need to use long nose pliers for this.

There is an alternative approach I've used, almost the same as you describe, but by not 'forming' the neutral conductor before it is terminated.

After dismantling the plug one first terminates the L and E conductors. Then, after carefully cutting the N conductor to an appropriate length, and stripping it, terminate it into ('loose') neutral pin with the conductor still 'straight and unformed'. Then turn the plug body around and insert the neutral pin (with the conductor still 'straight' and then bend the N conductor as required, at which point the earth pin and fuse clip/L terminal should be in roughly the right places to be inserted into their homes (in may be necessary to partially pull out the N pin to get the E pin into its hole). Finally, don't forget to re-tighten the N terminal screw after 'disturbing' it!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Poiup]

[...]

Having said that, using plugs to feed fixed wiring is generally considered pretty "rough", is there a reason you don't want to just extend the existing fixed wiring?

I thought that this would be a regulation workaround.
As far as I know, I can't hardwire new stuff (lights OR sockets) in a shed as I'm not an electrician, but I thought that if the circuit is on a plug then it's a sort of grey area and it's not really considered notifiable work... am I wrong?

 

[JohnW2]

I thought that this would be a regulation workaround.
As far as I know, I can't hardwire new stuff (lights OR sockets) in a shed as I'm not an electrician, but I thought that if the circuit is on a plug then it's a sort of grey area and it's not really considered notifiable work... am I wrong?

Yes, you are wrong. In the UK (well, England and Wales, I know nothing about Scotland) anyone can do any electrical work, provided only that they do it competently/safely. A very few things in England (and far more in Wales) are notifiable, that that doesn't restrict who can do them (provided they notify, which is often not cost-effective).

Adding new lights or sockets to an existing circuit is never notifiable in England (other than in some parts of a bathroom), but 'outdoor electri8cs' are notifiable in Wales, and that could include your shed.

Kind Regards, John

 

[winston1]

Before explain all this, I want to point out that two weeks ago I had an electrician carry out an EICR for "peace of mind" to make sure that everything is OK.
The certificate states that the installation is in satisfactory conditions. Once C3 observation stating that the consumer unit is not up to to the latest regulations. However, all circuits are RCD protected so he said that there's no immediate concern.

Coming to my question: there is a SWA cable (2.5mm) that runs from an isolator switch in the house to a shed in the garden. The cable is connected to an outdoor-type socket (see picture below). I would assume that the SWA cable situation is OK given that I have showed it to the electrician and he has not said anything about it.
Now, at the moment there's just a floodlight plugged into it. What I want to do is expand this circuit:

- replace the existing floodlight with an LED one (10W)
- install one more LED floodlight (20W)
- add 2 sockets for general use inside the shed.
- connect everything to the existing socket using a 13A fused plug

View attachment 272170

All cables inside the shed would run into corrugated conduit. Now... can I just get on with it or is there anything I have not considered?

Don't need 1.5mm for lights. 1.0mm is adequate and costs less.

 

[JohnD]

it would be interesting to know how long it is, and what else you might want to connect to it, and the fuse rating, rather than making unhelpful comments.

i don't think winston understood the relevance of:

"- add 2 sockets for general use inside the shed.
- connect everything to the existing socket using a 13A fused plug"

 

[Poiup]

Adding new lights or sockets to an existing circuit is never notifiable in England (other than in some parts of a bathroom), but 'outdoor electri8cs' are notifiable in Wales, and that could include your shed.

This page does not seem to agree with this:

Part P Building Regulations

How to conform to Part P building regulations. Advice and information about electrical safety and the UK regulations and what rules should be followed when carrying out electrical work

www.diydoctor.org.uk

Installation of a socket in a garden shed

Yes

 

[JohnD]

I have a feeling the author of that paragraph has not read the Requirement section of Part P of the Building Regulations

I have.

It is 28 words long.

I notice he has an incorrect definition of what a "Competent Person" is, in this context, which is wrong in 4 respects and, I submit, is worse than useless because some people might believe he knows what he is talking about.
And he appears to wrongly suggest that an RCD-integral socket is appropriate.
He has what he claims is a link to Part P; but it is not.

I suggest you ignore him. He does not appear to be competent to offer advice.

I didn't find any useful information on that website. is there any? If so, please post a link so I can read it.

 

[Poiup]

I guess my question then is: is there any difference between a permanent "hardwired" circuit and a non permanent "off a plug" circuit in terms or regulations?

 

[JohnW2]

This page does not seem to agree with this:

Part P Building Regulations

How to conform to Part P building regulations. Advice and information about electrical safety and the UK regulations and what rules should be followed when carrying out electrical work

www.diydoctor.org.uk

As has been said, whoever wrote that does not appear to understand what Part P of the Building Regulations is, nor does he/she appear to properly understand much about other regulations (e.g. the IET Wiring Regulations, aka BS7671) or much else electrical.

I also suggest that you ignore him.

Kind Regards, John