shed

[chessspy]

OK, lets get it right about cavity walls etc.
An open cavity wall, (one without insulation in) doesn't really work that well, as there are convection currents in an open cavity wall,so that although dry air is an almost perfect insulator, the open void really isn't as good as it should be, so that's why the powers that be invented foam infill, in it's various incarnations, none of them very effective. Often people who had their cavities filled found damp patches appearing inside due to the mortar droppings on the wall ties. ( this had been evaporated previously by the convection currents)
If you use a single skin of 4" bricks or blocks and then use 2x2" timber inside with a plaster board finish with fibreglass in the cavity, that will work as well as any other method, but choose whichever you will.

 

[chessspy]

What Joe says about temp-ramps is true enough, ( temp outside 0 degrees eg. temp inside 25 degrees, therefore the temp is graduated through the wall.
This is what a cavity wall is supposed to prevent. however millions of people live in Victorian homes with solid walls and don't notice a problem.
Therefore there must be some other effect at work.

 

[spoonse]

I understand all the info and thanks.The present shed has studwork made from timber ,ply,damp membrane sheet,e.m.l,then render with fibreglass in the studwork voids but i've a humidity metre on the go down there and it always reads a high level of humidity.The only way it seemed to go down was when i put a fan heater on timer and that seemed to work as the small amount of heat done the job.So would it be the same if there was a single blockwork wall with insulation backed plasterboard as taking a step back and thinking ..maybe a cavity wall will take up a little too much space for the size that i have.

 

[Deluks]

Do you have any ventilation in the current shed? Fitting an extractor fan in the wall will ensure a healthy structure.

If you need sound insulation then any rebuild should be concrete block outer, timber stud/plasterboard inner.

 

[chessspy]

Hi spoonse
My workshop is 4" conkers with 2x2" stud and wool in with plasterboard finish.
I've never had a problem with damp or condensation. I also insulated under the wood floor on top of the concrete base, and installed a secondhand double glazed window, with an old church door which is 2" thick.
I also insulated in between the ground floor joists in my house by stapling green rotproof gardening twine to the undersides of the joists about every foot along and laying the wool (glassfibre) on that.
I pay less than £20 a week for heating, lighting and cooking.
(mind it's bloody cold ) just kidding.
While I'm at it, lets put the theoretical power saving of neon lights fallacy to rest, an incandescent bulb is like a little heater, and contributes to the general heat in the house in winter, so there is no money saving to be had from using lo-current bulbs. So unless you keep your lights on in the summer, (when it gets dark later and the heating is turned off) then there is no savings to be made.

 

[spoonse]

I have vents in the walls of the existing shed but as i say i have to pull it down as i react to something in there all the time unfortunately.Chessspy when you say 4"conkers do you mean actual bricks or are they blocks?

 

[chessspy]

sorry spoonse,
I meant 4" concrete blocks, I shouldn't use the vernacular terms, which are considered de rigeur 'in the trade'.
I built the front elevation of the shed, (workshop, atelier) in reclaimed bricks which I saved from the internal knock through, all of which I did before we moved in as I needed the shed and house up and running as I work from home now.
I think I have posted a pic of lovely me building it somewhere here.
I suddenly developed a very strong reaction to sonokolin and cocobolo (two 'rosewoods') and had to stop using them altogether.
You do need to have a dust extractor, and a microclean sucker to 1 micron. I think it might be a good idea to consider where you will site your dust extractor, as the noise can be a problem. perhaps you might build an extra lean-to to house it.

 

[chessspy]

//www.diynot.com/network/chessspy/albums/
Pics of my shed here

 

[spoonse]

looks good mate maybe i'll go for something similar to that,have also been thinking about a log cabin which would be a lot more time saving

 

[chessspy]

OK spoonse,
I'm not a great one for timber structures being an ex-brickie, but I think they are pretty expensive.
I suppose if you bought all the materials at a timber merchants it would work out about the same price.
Remember brick doesn't burn as good as wood.