Shiplap Cladding advise needed..

[big-all]

dont go for joints in my oppinion you will regret it

plan well work out what you can do with a length get as many long sections remember youll need odd bits for the side off doors windows and the eaves if you got any are you making any doors out of shiplap!!!!!

i went for 20% wastage finnished up with nearer 10% [includes 2 bird boxes made entirely from off cuts ]

i planned windows off centre on two sides to allow the maximum flexibility of use of boards
and dont forget the boards cover approx 112mm so if you hight is 6ft youll need 17l[this leaves about 2"overlap at the bottom if you have a raised base]

 

[ellal]

dont go for joints in my oppinion you will regret it

I really don't want to, but I have been to every yard I can find around here, and nowhere has the required amount. And for some reason, I can't order 'x' amount of a certain length, even accepting 20% wastage, because they arrive in 'random packs'..and as I want to get it treated, I will get lengths anywhere from 2.1 to 5.8 up to the order total, but no idea of exactly what until it arrives...so given that the sides are 3.8m and 3.4m, I may end up with not enough long lengths!...I think that's odd, but as I say, all the yards here do it.

The only yard that has the lengths I need has it only in 'white wood' with the inherent problems with the knots..

 

[big-all]

youll need at least 10% for wastage any way so you might as well order the extra10% and if you need an odd joint here or there so be it

you will be wasting lots of 22" or 43" bits unless you can plan accordingly

on my workshop 12ft by 10ft one way to save wastage was
at the corners you secure a piece off 2 by 1" treated to cover the cut edge of the wood
its secured with .75" sticking out so from the long side all you can see is that piece of wood stiking out .75" this gives you a strait edge to work up to with the shiplap
this also gives you 1 1/4 inch overlaping onto the 10ft each side so 10ft -2.5" =9ft9.5" wich then means a 3m length would fit

i have one door made from shiplap one a normal door to keep the symetry of the shed normal door central other door looks like the other side but opens up to give a 5ft10" flush with the edge of the shed to slide whole sheets in unhindered
it also gave me a use for the lots of 43" off cuts to make the door

 

[masona]

I have built my summerhouse using half round log timber and the longest length I have used is 4.1m without any joints depending where the doors & windows is going to be, so it can be done because my summerhouse is 10m wide !

And I didn't made a bird table with the off-cuts

 

[ellal]

youll need at least 10% for wastage any way so you might as well order the extra10% and if you need an odd joint here or there so be it

I accept the wastage, but even if I order every length at say, 4.2 m, then all the yards say that they work out the total meterage, and then you have to take what arrives!..so that could mean a whole load of 2.7, 3.0, etc which would mean that i could'nt be sure not to have to use joins..I must say, I'm puzzled as to why I can't order set lengths..

 

[petewood]

I have never really worried about joints, I have always been able to work it out so that the joints are at the back or on an unseen end and then keep the front joint-free. Unless you are cutting by hand you can usually get very neat joints. Even if you allow 20-30% for wastage you have no guarantee that there will be enough lengths over 3.4m.

Why do you say you need to completely seal the joints? You won't be able to completely seal the cut ends at the corners of your shed.

PS. I presume you realise that any joints would be placed over an upright .

 

[big-all]

i was unlucky i only got the choice of two lengths well no choice thats what your getting

what size is your workshop ellal !!!! obviously the bigger the more need for joins

 

[ellal]

i was unlucky i only got the choice of two lengths well no choice thats what your getting

what size is your workshop ellal !!!! obviously the bigger the more need for joins

3.8m x 3.4m and 2.3m to the eves..

 

[ellal]

Why do you say you need to completely seal the joints? You won't be able to completely seal the cut ends at the corners of your shed.

PS. I presume you realise that any joints would be placed over an upright .

The corners will be covered by external pieces of wood, similar to that suggested earlier. Any Joins would be on an upright, but the question was how to best avoid water ingress into the most vulnerable bit, the ends of the wood at the joining point

 

[big-all]

another little tip to work out the material you need whatever your square m is multiply by 9 [9x111mm=1m]then thats your basic requirement minus openings plus extra for wastage

 

[masona]

The corners will be covered by external pieces of wood, similar to that suggested earlier.

Yep, that's correct

Any Joins would be on an upright, but the question was how to best avoid water ingress into the most vulnerable bit, the ends of the wood at the joining point

A lot depends how you design it, I have a pitch roof overhang like a soffit/fascia to prevent this, if it help I can put a photo of my summerhouse/workshop if need be. A bit difficult to explain it on here.

 

[petewood]

If all the cut ends are treated it won't matter too much about sealing them against rain. If your cut ends at corners, around the door and windows are covered by battens then rain will still reach the ends of your cladding if the wind is blowing strong enough.

 

[masona]

Oh well , like I says it's all depends how you design it, I have done it so no rain can get to my cut ends.

 

[ellal]

I've uploaded a couple of pics to give a better idea Here

 

[masona]

Good job there

I can't quite see and if it's possible to have the door & windows frame say 1 1/4" sticking out for the thickness of your cladding then butt the cladding to the door & windows frame then frame sealant afterward to prevent rain into the cuts end.

Are you going to use lead flashing at the bottom to prevent rain soaking in?