this is only an idea so dont all shoot me, but if you are going to clad over the timber on the inside, how about giving it a coat of aquaseal or similar. should waterproof the gaps and not effect the finish on the face. Sort of a modern day varient of the tar they put on the inside of ships in the old days
Shiplap (cont) problem...
- Thread starter ellal
- Start date
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ellal said:
dont forget youll need to concider you window and door openings are going to be about 15mm deeper this will effect the way they sit
also the angle sections will need to be bigger as your loosing 15mm cos both faces are moving out 15mm
Depends if ellal shoot me first, shall we have a meeting about this? I reckon the shiplap is upside down.
Doh...I knew it had to be something simple!...
I'm considering using 12x50, which when finished gives a depth of about 10mm, so add on a few mm for the felt should give nearly 15mm as you say.
The door frame is oversized inside by 20mm, and is in one piece, so easy to move outwards. The drip channel on the window sills will still be 15mm away from the new shiplap position, and I'll put in a 15x15 corner piece before adding larger corner pieces...that should cover it (no pun intended) I hope..
But hey, I could be lucky, and when I come to have a look next year, the oil that I will brush upwards into the gaps will have done it's job!...
Just noticed your double door picture 24, as they open outward it would be a good idea to put another sill on top of the door frame to prevent driving rain into the top of the door. I use a door frame sill on top of mine and just rip it down to the right width. I also done it on my windows as well but your might be protected by the roof overhang.
masona said:
Thanks for that..it was an improvement I was considering ( a sort of triangular top trim with a routered drip) along with weatherboards along the bottom of the doors, and a centre piece of wood attached to the main opening door to cover the gap between the doors.
This is very much an ongoing learning process!...
hi , just been reading this thread with interest , might as well add my own opinions , firstly , i think the garage that you are making looks top notch , a leak like yours is hard to track without actually seeing it in the flesh!!! however , if you are planning on taking off the boards next summer , dont use felt , use a breathable paper membrane , a brand name being TYVEC paper , that is what we use ( we have just cladded 4 , 12 story apartment blocks with t & g and used on timber framed houses ) the membrane is of a kind of thread construction which repels the rain but obviuosly lets the timber breath while not holding water and further adding to the problems roofers also use it now , not sure of the cost but id be 99% sure that wuold solve you problem...cheers les
, might as well add my own opinions , firstly , i think the garage that you are making looks top notch , a leak like yours is hard to track without actually seeing it in the flesh!!! however , if you are planning on taking off the boards next summer , dont use felt , use a breathable paper membrane , a brand name being TYVEC paper , that is what we use ( we have just cladded 4 , 12 story apartment blocks with t & g and used on timber framed houses ) the membrane is of a kind of thread construction which repels the rain but obviuosly lets the timber breath while not holding water and further adding to the problems roofers also use it now , not sure of the cost but id be 99% sure that wuold solve you problem...cheers lesDIYnot Local
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