Shiplap fixings

[Wils81]

In relation to my previous cladding thread. What should I be fixing 20mm green treated shiplap with? It's a garden room, 4x2 studs, 11mm osb, 2x1 battens. Would a 50mm fixing be OK? I have a 1st fix nail gun but could also borrow a 2nd fix if needed. May screw the bottom few in for easy replacement in the future when needed but was thinking to nail the rest. TiA

 

[JohnD]

It's outdoors, it will get wet. Plain steel, or BZP, will quickly rust.

So small stainless screws, into drilled holes

Or brass if you like

Even cheap Chinese stainless will not rust, although it will tarnish.

My roof is fixed with bronze nails, I understand they were expensive.

 

[Diver Fred]

Don't forget that the fixing shall only go through the thick part of the Shiplap - that means if the overlap is 20mm then the fixing is 25mm so the fixing does not pass through the under sheet - that stops splitting from contraction and expansion due to the weather.

 

[Wils81]

Don't forget that the fixing shall only go through the thick part of the Shiplap - that means if the overlap is 20mm then the fixing is 25mm so the fixing does not pass through the under sheet - that stops splitting from contraction and expansion due to the weather.

Sorry, didn't quite understand this. Are you saying use a nail that only goes through the thickness of the shiplap and batten combined but not totally through the batten? Thanks

 

[JohnD]

It doesn't go through the board behind. Each board has to be free to expand and contract individually. There is just one row of screws along each board.

 

[Wils81]

Thanks. So on a 20mm thick bit of cladding, would a 50mm stainless nail/screw be sufficient? Or should I be using longer

 

[JohnD]

More than enough

 

[^woody^]

These screws are worth it.

www.russwood.co.uk/shop/product/l-gofix-a2-screws/

Either way, use only part threaded screws and a small diameter head helps prevent them becoming visible when the boards shrink.

 

[Wils81]

These screws are worth it.

www.russwood.co.uk/shop/product/l-gofix-a2-screws/

Either way, use only part threaded screws and a small diameter head helps prevent them becoming visible when the boards shrink.

Woody, thanks for all your comments on my threads on this garden room. I've got another thread that's asking the question about joins in shiplap or t&g (not sure what I'm using yet). Basically 6m long,, what's your thoughts on whether to butt join the long lengths by scattering the joins or running a thicker piece of timber vertically and splitting the length of cladding to 3m,, almost like framing the cladding?