Should I Protect Railway Sleepers

Wasting your time with any brush on treatment for ground contact, it will make no practical difference.

It has to be properly pressure treated in the first instance, with a copper organic treatment (like tanalith). And there are different levels of treatment, you need to make sure they have used ground contact treatment levels.

Re-treatment is only worthwhile considering if it is to retreat cut end-grain.
 
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It has been treated... Some more than others. I could see the green tint bleeding through when I cut some of them. Some bleed more of the way, others bleed in by 1-2 inch. I will definitely treat the exposed cut ends. My mate has some of the tanalising treatment... Would that be okay?
 
I have just finished installing these pressure treated railway sleepers in my front garden. There will just be grass running between them (No Flowers)

Should I add some DPC or Plastic sheeting to prevent the soil causing/accelerating rot? The sleepers are also sat on soil.

I believe they are tanalised pine timber

View media item 82284

Worked on the railway for 40 years and them aren't railway sleepers,if they were there'd be no need to treat them. Just saying.
 
I have just finished installing these pressure treated railway sleepers in my front garden. There will just be grass running between them (No Flowers)

Should I add some DPC or Plastic sheeting to prevent the soil causing/accelerating rot? The sleepers are also sat on soil.

I believe they are tanalised pine timber

View media item 82284

Worked on the railway for 40 years and them aren't railway sleepers,if they were there'd be no need to treat them. Just saying.

No they're sleeper stylee, not allowed to use real ones anymore, due to all the cack in them.
 
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Yes Honda I refer to them as sleepers as everyone does. I know they aren't the type from the railway! Hence why I am asking about the treatment etc
 
IMO if they are sold as sleepers, they should have the same level of treatment as sleepers (which is similar to fence post treatment, but more so).

In regards to re-treating cut ends, dip them and allow the timber to suck up the treatment, or just go nuts with a brush, then use an end grain sealant.
 
A decent brushed on preserver will defiantly extend the life somewhat, although you'd have to lift them, and give all sides numerous coats, so it may or may not be worth the time!



Creosote is still available although it's for "professional" use only.
You can even buy posts and timber pre treated with creosote
 
Thanks scbk, I will drag the soil which is back filled in tomorrow and get a good few coats done in the week... can't do any harm.

The land is sloped and normally the water drains away well
 
In the end I decided to pull back the soil and fill with gravel to promote drainage. Hopefully will help the situation.
 
A decent brushed on preserver will defiantly extend the life somewhat

No it won't.

Creosote is still available although it's for "professional" use only.

Be vary wary about this, lot's of products are available that are 'fake' creosote (like creocoat), that are basically water based treatments with a black dye added.
 
Aron that's the reasons I went with gravel to prevent impacted soil and promote some natural drainage :)
 

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