shower going off??

[gaztfa1]

Hi, and thanks in advance.
My shower that I fitted neally a year ago now has started to ''play-up''
At first I thought it was the switch, maybe a loose connection. I removed the switch and put it back on. There was no loose connection, however one of the nuetral cables had a black kind of sut on the end, where the connection would have been made. It worked fine for a couple of days but this morning my girlfriend was in the shower and it went off. It hadn't tripped in the consumer unit, we just turnued it off with the pull cord and then back on again 10 seconds later, it worked fine, and continued to wrk fine while I was in the shower. Is there a fault with the shower or the switch. I used the correct breaker and size cable when I installed the unit, so I don't think it's them, Like I said, it's worked fine for neally a year now.
Any ideas?
Cheers.

 

[chowbasa]

Could be low water pressure turning the heater off.

 

[Big_Spark]

If there is a "kind of soot" on the neutral it sounds like the shower is overheating, possibly the cables feeding the shower is not up to the job, but more likely something has gone wrong in the unit itself. The overheating COULD be the result of Low water pressure as mentioned above.

May I suggest that you check the neutral again to see if the "soot" has returned? If it has then there is a problem there than needs to be addressed urgently.

The shower is turning off due to the operation of a Thermal Trip inside the unit, this is designed to protect the User and unit in the event of a fault. If you do not have the skills to test the unit, I would suggest that Initially you contact the Manufacturers Technical Help line, they may be usefull in providing reading for the shower, however one thing to consider is contacting an electrician.

It would be a wise move to have the shower tested whilst in operation, and I do not advocate this as an amateurs job due to the inherent dangers. The Tester needs to do a load check on the unit, to see if it is drawing more from the supply that designed, this would indicate a serious fault with the unit, in order to check this they will need a clamp meter, which I will assume you do not have anyway.

Sorry I can't be anymore specific, but without actually being there to test the unit and see what you see it is difficult to second guess.