Shower pump query..........

[Doctor Drivel]

You still do not understand power and energy.

I predict that you will continue believing and writing this, so any further comment by me is a waste of time.

Did you read and most important understand what I wrote in the tutorial for you?

Using the wider plate heat exchangers gives more plate flex, and they resist scale.

If the resistance were as effective as you claim, which it isn't, you wouldn't you need to install the scale prevention that you said was essential.

Belt and braces.

They are cheaper, or no more expensive than unvented cylinders and act with higher pressures.

They are not cheaper. They are more expensive.

Stop making things up.

A normal Grundfos CH pump will give at least 10 years if in the right environment.

You seem obsessed with how long it will last. It doesn't matter how long, because whenever it does wear out it will cost more than zero money to replace it.

You don't say! It costs to replace a pump.

Once again....the DHW does not come into contact with the CH water.

Not "does not", but "must not".

You are clearly a fool.

Also a vented heat bank is failsafe.

Have the heat bank do the rads as well and the boiler then is in a superior hydraulic environment too giving longevity to the boiler. And a simpler cheaper boiler can be used.

Well whoop-de-do.

My God he is learning!

No contest a heat bank wins hands down.

Except on installation cost.

Nonsense!!

Oh, and providing a shower in a power cut.

Have a hybrid or an full immersed coil, or a separate non-electric single point gas water heater serving the the shower as. if that troubles you every 10 or 20 years.

Goodbye, Water Systems, or Drivel, or whomever you next become.

The best thing you have ever wrote!!!

 

[GJS]

Yes, the FS05, the mains 140v one as you identified is the one, I linked to the FS-6 which is DC.

I have done what you thought of. The fan came on. Later it was disconnected as a shower/light was fitted and you needed the light as it was dark in the shower. If the bathroom is very light then the flow switch will make sense - get rid of all that water vapour.

I've got the switch but haven't installed it yet. Just one slight sting in the tail is that the specs quote that the switch needs to be mounted vertically, no problem there, but what it doesn't mention (or I didn't see) is that the flow needs to be upwards i.e. switch must be vertical and "this way up" with flow direction marked. Basically the switch is a little 'torpedo' that gets pushed up by the water flow then falls back by gravity when the flow stops.

I haven't got anywhere where the flow is upwards so I'll need to put a loop in to fit the switch. Not the end of the world but something to remember if you're doing new pipe work.