Shower RCD

[laurieg]

Thanks guys

Your right on the JB. What is the point in selling showers and cabling etc to install it if you can't fit the correct components.

Anyway, you have convinced me to go for the 10mm2 cable but I think it better to get one of you types to run the cable in from the CU, (not done that before. I am an aircraft engine fitter by trade but home electrics are best done by you types). Better still, get him to do the job

Many thanks for your help. These forums are a full of the good stuff.

Laurie

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks guys

Your right on the JB. What is the point in selling showers and cabling etc to install it if you can't fit the correct components.

Possibly because you should avoid the use of junction boxes...?

But most probably because the sheds are cr@p.

 

[securespark]

Unless I have misread, if the cable is to be replaced, there is no worry about a jb.

If there has to be a join, make it at the switch, where there is a natural break in the cable anyway.

 

[laurieg]

I can't do that. The cable from the CU went into a JB just where it came out of the cavity in the loft. It is too far from where I want to put the switch. My intention was to run the new cable from the JB onwards but htis is all imaterial if I cannot get a 45A JB

 

[plugwash]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html

 

[Agile]

I am a little surprised that all of you giving replies did not comment on the earthing in his shower room.

However much more important is that being in a shower/bathroom this will need to be certified under Part P by a competent electrician with 2391 and issued with a safety certificate and notified to the local Building Control under one of the various schemes.

All these new controls were put in place much to the annoyance of many in the industry just to stop people like this doing DIY when they cannot even work out the current used by a 10.5 kW appliance.

By the way shouldn't the calculation be done at 230 v rather than 240v ?

Tony

 

[plugwash]

All these new controls were put in place much to the annoyance of many in the industry just to stop people like this doing DIY when they cannot even work out the current used by a 10.5 kW appliance.

By the way shouldn't the calculation be done at 230 v rather than 240v ?

most showers sold in the uk are currently specced at 240V (at least for the headline ratings they usually also quote the power at 230V deviding that by 230V will lead to a figure higher than the true current on either 230 or 240V

dividing by 240V would give you the true current at 230V

dividing by 240V*240V then multiplying by 230V will give you the true current at 230V but given that our mains supply is still 240V in practice we may as well design the cuircuit taking account of the extra current this will cause.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I can't do that. The cable from the CU went into a JB just where it came out of the cavity in the loft. It is too far from where I want to put the switch. My intention was to run the new cable from the JB onwards but htis is all imaterial if I cannot get a 45A JB

But you have to replace ALL of the cable.....

 

[securespark]

Is it necessary to mention things like Part P or supplementary bonding every time? I'm sure these things appear in the sticky....

For that matter, perhaps we should stop giving advice altogether and automatically refer people to a pro?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

For that matter, perhaps we should stop giving advice altogether and automatically refer people to a pro?

No, no, no

and

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[securespark]

Ban

I agree with you. Just making a point. Perhaps if those two items are not in the sticky, we should put them there?

Would be better than mentioning in it in every related post?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Perhaps if those two items are not in the sticky, we should put them there?

I've been wondering about that - and the reorganisation of the Reference sticky into a few separate ones to make it easier for people to home in on stuff, e.g:

> Part P
> Domestic Circuit Info (to contain lighting, rings, spur rules, fan wiring etc etc)
> Reference Info (abbreviations, background stuff on RCDs, cable selection etc)
> Possibly one more if anything comes up during the re-org which doesn't fit the above, but I think 4 stickies should be the absolute max....

 

[securespark]

Sounds good to me...

 

[laurieg]

Wow, I really did kick something off here, didn't I

Apart from the ignorant comments by two of you, I have learnt a lot from you guys. This is what the forum should be about. Letting people know the correct info but warning about problems in DIY.

Don't slag us off as thickies just because we asked a question. I, for one, am all for getting rid of cowboys. Let's get the job done safely.

I realise from the ADVICE given that I should see about a professional doing the work, and I will but come on guys, lets keep this forum friendly.

As an aside, from what I understand about the new regs you all have to do two lots of courses on testing circuits etc before you can do domestic work. The added cost of these courses will become prohibitive and many that I have asked have said it was not worth it. Surely, this lets the cowboys in and we all know at least one of them!!!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Anybody who is/was installing circuits and not testing them is/was a cowboy anyway, and that's nothing to do with Part P.