Skim Cracking Despite Thorough Prep

[Tozzy]

Have you got room enough to dot and dab over the wall? You could put lots of small dots on it and dab some 9.5 mm boards over the lot .You would probably get it out to less than an inch, then skim as normal!!

Hi roy, thanks for the idea, but this will be plan B if the 2nd attempt at skimming doesn't work out! I've come this far and personally I much prefer the sound of a solid wall when tapped, then plasterboard. I've estimated it will take about 4-5 hours getting all this skim off as it's generally stuck on quite well. I'm pretty certain i could have got away with a patching job, but when I thought about it, 4-5 hours doing that I may as well spend that time starting from scratch and doing it properly. Can't thank you guys enough for your help. This forum is so handy when running into trouble

 

[roy c]

Fair enough Tozzy but you could spread the adhesive on the back of the boards with a deep knotched trowel and tap the boards on and you would still have a solid wall, as long as you wall is flat to start with,, Just a thought,,, It would be like putting big tiles on..

 

[Tozzy]

Fair enough Tozzy but you could spread the adhesive on the back of the boards with a deep knotched trowel and tap the boards on and you would still have a solid wall, as long as you wall is flat to start with,, Just a thought,,, It would be like putting big tiles on..

Well I'm about 1/3 way through the scraping so I may as well carry on because there's no real way of saving any time whatever I do, and believe me, scraping is a lot easier for me than getting plasterboards from A to B and hanging them without help. Besides, everything I've done would be so in vain because I may as well have done that when I was at the bare block stage (yes I'm sorry I didn't now!!). I appreciate the input though. Well fingers crossed for my 2nd attempt cheers

 

[stevethespreader]

If the crazing wasent as bad and none of the plasters moves you could have got away with a reskim over it but your crazing looks excessive 5 hours scraping is nothing best to be safe than sorry good luck with it let us know how how you get on

 

[NickB_99]

Hi Mcmillan:

How long did you wait after sealing the wall with PVA to skim it?

2 weeks. Surely that wouldn't be a problem?

Hi Tozzy.
From this I'm assuming you skimmed the wall completely dry, 2 weeks after both coats of diluted pva.
I think the killer was not doing the 2nd pva coat just before skimming, so it was still tacky.
For your remaining dry walls, personally I'd go with the bondit/sbr/wba option then it's ok skimming dry (so long as you are very generous applying it).
Soaking would work, as would the 2 coats pva (so long as 2nd tacky when you skim) - but for me there is more timing that can go wrong in these last two, especially with hard wall so dry - it makes it a bigger risk than wba etc.

If it's any consolation, I did the same as you when I started having a go in covering some dry bonding. Fortunately for me, it was only 1 sq m!
I never did it again. Funny how you learn most from mistakes!
If you can float and set a wall with hard wall, then your plastering is coming on well.

 

[stevethespreader]

Bone Dry hardwall needs more than 2 coats of pva also there is some wrong advice been given on this post about pva, high suction backgrounds need a weak initial mix of 5-1 so it soaks and sucks into the wall after this has dried which won't take long a stronger mix can be used ."as says on most PVA tubs " 5-1 high suction or low suction such as painted or tiled surfaces you can put it on neat , if I was to PVA dry hard wall I would use 5-1 let it dry then a 3-1 then another 3-1let that dry and maybe another until I'm happy about the suction