Skirting techniques.

[Northbeach]

Not so much the 45 degree on the jigsaw more it doesn't poetically skate across the wood - quite heavy handed (it's a decent one mind, but for smaller intricate jobs not so hot).
I have just managed to get hold of a coping saw.

all you do is mitre it at 45 exactly the same as if its going to be a mitred join then cut the profile off the exposed grain on the bit your using

[you disgard the 45% offcut]

you could do it with an offcut to mark the line but not easy...

Sorry - some of the terminology is reminiscent of my spanish classes!
I'm still not entirely sure whether I should mark the profile from a flat end grain or a mitred 45 degree piece - would there be any difference anyhow? Essentially, on two pieces of wood for an internal piece - 3 of these will be flat cut (one of those scribed) and the other mitred at 45 for the external? I apologise if I'm chasing a parked car here but I want to eliminate any margins of error (the walls are fairly tipsy at the bottom!).

 

[big-all]

ok cut at 45% this will expose the outline highlight the outline with a pencil along the ridge
cut along the pencil line

you can just butt up the other bit off skirting and draw round it but due to moulded or slopping edges accurate transfer of the line isnt easy
clear as mud eeehhh

if your still confused i will step back and let someone else explain clearly

 

[Northbeach]

...I just can't seem to transfer the good advice into practice!
I'm wasting wood skirting at knots at this rate...thought I had is sorted bit clearly not. When I but the scribed piece up to the flat piece, the top sloped section isn't too bad but by the time it reaches the bottom it's almost 10mm out!
Obviously I'm not getting the sloped bit right on my profile...despite many, many attempts. Got to the point where I've started swearing at the pine in front of me ...I'm sure the profile marking is pushing this out - I would have found it far easier using mitred cuts on the internals but I'm determined to win on this one, but as yet I can't seem to find a way how??

 

[splinter]

You said you can do internal mitres.
Therefore all you have to do is cut a mitre (45% cut ) on the skirting that is to be scribed.Now look at this mitre .and remember the shape of you're skirting .
You will see the exact same profile or shape on the front of the skirting where end grain of the mitre starts this the shape you cut to give you the scribe.I am sure there is someone out there that is more offay with computers and will draw a diagram for you

 

[big-all]

now i am getting confused

ok powerd jigsaw no good for this job at 45 deg[cant workout if your using one ]

use a set square check the mitred end before you scribe it it should be square

check the wall to floor square at the point the scribed bit is meeting the skirting tell us what you find

 

[Northbeach]

I reckon you lot could show me in a few seconds 'in the flesh' - sometimes advice doesn't travel well on the tinternet.

Must admit I hadn't considered cutting a mitred 45 then cutting away this end grain to get my profile. I was using an offcut mitred piece pressed (on the end grain giving a 45 degree angle) to mark off the line. Fine on the straight but the upper end sloped edge pulled it out when butting up against the the other skirting.

I've found a couple of diagrams which refer to this method:

I will try this method on the morrow - most popular?

Yes - using jigsaw Big All. Well I was using this to cut the profile, the 45 degree I use a mitre box and standard saw - the skirting is slightly higher than the box so you have to visually line up the first few saws before you slot into the grooves.
Tried a coping saw, but that's a tricky tool if I've ever used one.

Thanks for your patience and apologies if I'm doing your heads in!

 

[big-all]

powerd jigsaw ok for strait cuts buuuuttt difficult to follow the line acurately
better with a normal saw easier to control

you still havent said if your mitre cuts are comming out square !!!!

as for doing my head in mmmmmmmmmm your getting there

 

[Northbeach]

^^ I have a cut off piece in front of me now:

Dual faced - I'm using the rounded part as front facing. This particular piece is definitely mitred square All, however one or two practice cuts didn't...they bent in towards the bottom, curved back on itself slightly...this may be the problem right?

The method I posted last night -

is a different type of skirting - I can't relate this method to the rounded skirting however. I suppose I'll have to make sure the mitre is square and then trace the profile more carefully.
When cutting the profile - as I didn't really grasp what you meant by 'undercutting', should I cut this at a slight angle, say like a 5 degree mitre cut?
I'll probably owe you a few drinks to sort your head out!

Am I on the right track now then?

 

[big-all]

your skirting may be cupped hold your square on the face [front] or back edge see if you have any rocking or hollows

ok lets do basics mitre 2 odd bits to make a corner mitre
stand them neatly on a flat surface[they should be sticking up forming a corner ]with the bits neatly fitting tight with your "third" hand
try a square and check the square between the bits and the flat surface and each bit of skirting[three measurements]if they are all square your mitering is fine if not the first point of concern


you always mitre at 45%[or required angle]
the undercutting is done when hand cut to the the line at 90 deg cutting along the line accuratly never deviate from the line but the blade goes a few degrees beyond the 90%so it slopes backwards giving you only the front edge visible edge contacting the skirting

 

[Northbeach]

he undercutting is done when hand cut to the the line at 90 deg cutting along the line accuratly never deviate from the line but the blade goes a few degrees beyond the 90%so it slopes backwards giving you only the front edge visible edge contacting the skirting

I think this was what I meant by the 5 degree 'mitre' cut. i.e angle the blade as you saw up the profile - say a few degree's inwardly meaning the end grain will taper in leaving the front facing join free for a little manouvering...right?

I also believe the art is in the copying of the profile...I'd scored around a mitred cut onto the wood with a pencil - though this is ok as the pencil is following the line, but the curved at the top was far too pronounced - made the skirting just out a little. The other fly in the ointment is that for this first scribe the flat piece of skirt I'm scribing against is set against a the width of the brick fireplace - my last cut is very snug on a flat floor held as you desribed above - the brick's are 'rustic' and a little ramshackle thereby not giving a genuine flat piece to but up against.
It's by no means perfect (you would notice it) but to the naked eye and when varnished up it should look fine.

With the wonky brick I suppose I should add a thicker piece of glue on the end where it inclines that little.
'Nore more big gaps' for the the, um, gaps between the walls and skirting recommended?

Nearly there...I'll try and post the finished article as and when!!
A thousand thanks.

 

[big-all]

" think this was what I meant by the 5 degree 'mitre' cut. i.e angle the blade as you saw up the profile - say a few degree's inwardly meaning the end grain will taper in leaving the front facing join free for a little manouvering...right? "


no that wont work you must do it whilst your cutting by hand to the line


"I also believe the art is in the copying of the profile...I'd scored around a mitred cut onto the wood with a pencil - though this is ok as the pencil is following the line, but the curved at the top was far too pronounced - made the skirting just out a little. The other fly in the ointment is that for this first scribe the flat piece of skirt I'm scribing against is set against a the width of ramshackle thereby not giving a genuine flat piece to but up against.
It's by no means perfect (you would notice it) but to the naked eye and when varnished up it should look fine.

With the wonky brick I suppose I should add a thicker piece of glue on the end where it inclines that little.
'Nore more big gaps' for the the, um, gaps between the walls and skirting recommended?

Nearly there...I'll try and post the finished article as and when!!
A thousand thanks."




ooohhh well i was going to make further comments but as your nearing completion i think i will just stand in a darkend corner and recover

good luck

 

[Northbeach]

No - go ahead All - it's a learning 'curve' all this.

no that wont work you must do it whilst your cutting by hand to the line.

Then I'm back to square one on this again then...!!!
I am cutting at a slight angle whilst cutting against the profile line...this is wrong then? Have you a diagram of this undercutting business as I'm missing the boat big time on this

It's somehow working and the scribes are getting better with each attempt (i've wasted a fair bit of wood mind...off to the h/ware store next).



Another thing is the blinkin wires which I want to hide around the skirting - - best just to lay flat around the back of the skirting when glueing in?

 

[big-all]

"Then I'm back to square one on this again then...!!!
I am cutting at a slight angle whilst cutting against the profile line...this is wrong then? Have you a diagram of this undercutting business as I'm missing the boat big time on this "

if this is what your doing its right
i will write it a different way below to see if it reads any clearer




ok lets have another go you have marked the pencil line on the face[front] edge
imagine an identical contoured line on the back but 2 or 3mm farther away from the skirting your fitting it to



will effect
you just make the saw blade follow the actual line and the imaginery at the same time
just making shure when the saw cuts the top its at right angles not undercuting

 

[splinter]

Big All,I just read you're post and could help but notice that the last emoticon is actually gritting it's teeyh behind his smile.

 

[big-all]

Big All,I just read you're post and could help but notice that the last emoticon is actually gritting it's teeyh behind his smile.

l m a o
is it that obvious





depends on the size off the wires and wether the glue[pink grip no nails] will effect the insulation

if youve got duel skirting with a molding on the back edge it may sit in this space

you could also remove a triangle off the back bottom corner with a hand plane
or router a square from the bottom corner [table router]

or my favorate in the recess between the skirting and carpet grip if its small cable