Skoda roomster oil warning light on but oil level is ok

Can you do the shells with the engine in situ? Isn't there a bearing cage plate that bolts to the bottom of the block?
 
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Absolutely no idea - I'm not familiar with this engine at all.
I have done jobs like this in the past though but they were all on 4 and 6 cylinder V engine Fords.....they were straight forward enough but it was impossible to remove any debris from the oilways.
I reckon if you went to a dealer asking for big end shells they would be pushed to understand what you meant :eek:
John :)
 
Quick update.

Called to see mechanic today and oilpump chain had snapped and chain tensioner broken and fallen into sump not causing any major damage luckily-thus was most probably the initial failure-either the chain worn causing it to snap or the tensioner worn and broke causing the chain to snap.
So he has checked crankshaft shell bearings of which are also scored so going to replace these shells at the same time and hopefully all ok-slight scoring to crankshaft but he has gauged with micrometer and all in spec so has just very lightly cleaned off with very very fine wet and dry paper.
Everything's going to be cleaned off in a parts bath and reassembled hopefully this week and hopefully all good...
He even got up on a ramp to show me all associated parts etc.
 
We appreciate the update!
I wasn't aware that there was a tensioner involved here - that's the boy to fail as the chain goes slack, jumps a tooth and then its game over.
Some slight scoring on the crank journals is to be expected, and hopefully the shells don't show any traces of copper. I'd expect him to do the big ends too?
Keep us informed, if you will!
John :)
 
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The mechanic guy who seems fairly knowledgable was just going to renew the big end shells-,don't think he has checked the mains for some reason....he does engines mainly for a living so there must be some reasoning behind this.

To renew this oilpump chain I think he said a cover has got to come off from the side of the engine which looks like it houses the top oilpump drive cog and the chain is endless so it's got to be dismantled to get the chain over it (I'm assuming this drive cog is on the end of the crank) so it should be a case of refitting everything back together and hey presto.
Would the turbo lubrication side of things be driven by the oilpump also.as wondering if it is would there maybe damage there also.
 
I can understand his reasoning to some degree.....the big end bearings are subjected to much more thrust than the mains - which are often bigger anyway. I guess we just have to see what condition the old shells are in!
I wouldn't over worry about the turbo as the engine wasn't running for long, and it wasn't hot anyway.
Fingers crossed for you!
John :)
 
Do we know how long the engine ran with no pressure? I'd be worrying about the cam as well.
Are you looking at this repair as a permanent fix or planning on getting rid of the car asap?
 
Quick update on engine repair.


The engine rebuild guy had to take the engine out of the car and completely rebuild it fitting a second hand good block and a second hand good crank and as he said he "topped and tailed it" which I'm guessing is Pistons out,fitting new main shells and big end bearings,gaskets,etc etc as when he first put it together in situ first time around it still had no oil pressure and I think he said the main bearings where knackered and something on the crank which he must of overlooked also was shot so it's all running now but after getting it going he seems to think there's an electrical fault as the engine management light is on and glow plug light flashing but car seems to drive ok so I'm wondering if something has been disturbed which might cause this-maybe maf sensor,a sensor going faulty(crankshaft/camshaft)

He's put it on diagnostic machine of which I think he said it had low vacuum pressure but he seems to think these have a faulty wiring issue somewhere in loom..
 
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