Slow weep on rad valve

[GH blackpool]

And bugger me if I've not tried tightening it - scared I'm gonna snap the pipe!!!

I'm at the end of my tether with it now - and seem to remember seeing a tin of something in a shop once that stops minor leaks - you can I presume spray/squirt it on offending slow weeps?

Anyone used this / can tell me where to pick some up?

Many thanks

 

[bengasman]

nothing that you can spray/brush/paste on a valve to stop it leaking.

 

[GH blackpool]

Ok thanks.

The offending valve is the one at the top of the 'elbow' that turns to either let the water into the rad to heat it, or prevent it entering (i'm no expert on terminology, apologies).

If I turn it 'off' and give it a good tighten, no weep. As I turn it on though, weeping commences.

Any advice on resolving at all?

Many thanks

 

[bengasman]

Replace it.

 

[GH blackpool]

I'm gonna say it with much embarrassment, but could I try a smear of Fernox LSX? The valve is never turned oridinarily - I think this is the first time I've turned it (to stop the weep) since moving in 8yrs ago!!

 

[regsmyth]

Of course.
Also try marmite, silicone, sellotape and blutak.
But the water is under pressure, and it will keep leaking.

You may have also put a kink in the connection unless you used two spanners, so replacement is the only sensible thing to go for.

You'll need to drain the system only enough for the water level to drop below the valve.

The new valve might not fit the existing nut (the one on the riser pipe), so you might have to get the olive off, not likely to be easy.
Could be better to cut the riser pipe and solder or compression joint a new bit on.

Could be even better to get a plumber.

Good luck.

 

[GH blackpool]

Of course.
Also try marmite, silicone, sellotape and blutak.

Point taken

Yep, this is getting beyond me now - time to get a pro in.

Cheers!

 

[g20]

Sounds like its the gland nut in the valve thats leaking. Older valves have a tendency to leak from there unless they are either turned fully off or fully on, hence why it didn't leak when you turned it off and tightened. Are you turning the valve on and off using the plastic head or have you removed this and using pliers/grips? Take off the plastic head and open the valve fully! then using a pair of pliers or grips try open it more (you can apply a fair bit of pressure but don't go at it like superman as there is a chance of snapping it) If this doesn't work then you'll have to buy a new valve indeed, but opening it fully then giving it some more with grips should work.

 

[GH blackpool]

G20

It is an old valve.

The plastic head is a bugger to turn, so I removed the screw to inspect the leak and turned it off with pliers.

I'll try turning it fully ON when I get home tonight. Fingers crossed!!

 

[g20]

turn it full on then when it feels tight try turn it even more, should stop it. let us know

 

[bengasman]

And don't forget to check your insurance is paid up.

 

[JohnD]

post a pic of the valve

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=129539

I was amazed to find that the old rad valves in my mum's house can have new "O" rings fitted without having to drain the system

 

[Nige F]

Old Pegler valves But can you still get the O rings

 

[JohnD]

Yes. They are incredibly expensive, but one of the members on here helped me out.

 

[GH blackpool]

Sounds like its the gland nut in the valve thats leaking. Older valves have a tendency to leak from there unless they are either turned fully off or fully on, hence why it didn't leak when you turned it off and tightened. Are you turning the valve on and off using the plastic head or have you removed this and using pliers/grips? Take off the plastic head and open the valve fully! then using a pair of pliers or grips try open it more (you can apply a fair bit of pressure but don't go at it like superman as there is a chance of snapping it) If this doesn't work then you'll have to buy a new valve indeed, but opening it fully then giving it some more with grips should work.

Worked a treat G20 - many thanks!!!