Sludge in the feed/expansion tank - how?

post some pics of the pipes round the boiler, cylinder and pump, someone may see a way. I fitted one in my mum's house on the return from downstairs rads (there is another from upstairs) so it only cleans half the return. my view is all the water gets mixed together, so it can do the other half when it comes round again.
 
Sponsored Links
looks like it could go on the return side of the pump.

best to fit some pipe clips to the wall, as the pump and the cleaner will be hanging on the pipe, and you have to twist the lid off.

it wil be easiest to fit on a straight pipe

you can buy a 28mm Mag but it is more expensive than the 22mm
 
looks like it could go on the return side of the pump.

best to fit some pipe clips to the wall, as the pump and the cleaner will be hanging on the pipe, and you have to twist the lid off.

it wil be easiest to fit on a straight pipe

you can buy a 28mm Mag but it is more expensive than the 22mm

So, in the space immediately after the pump (in this case, below the pump) might be doable? I see what you are saying about the pipe clips.

I think the pipe is 22mm, not 28mm.

Thanks for your help/advice with this - really useful. :eek:
 
Sponsored Links
This topic seems to have degenerated into talking a lot of b*llocks.

I notice we have the resurrection of the old myth that X400 can be left in the system indefinitely. It beats me how apparently intelligent people can consider this idea to be of any value.

Then there's talk of beating the cr@p out of radiators that are apparently working well. If they work, then FFS leave them alone.

And I'm aghast at the concept of an F&S cistern working as a filter. I can hardly believe I'm reading some of this stuff.

30 years worth of rust? I really don't think so. You clearly have a very modern circulating pump and recent pump valves, so the system was drained to fit those. Is it perhaps the case that the installer of those components left the system without any corrosion inhibitor in it?

Bottom line: forget the Magnaclean gimmick, just drain the system, flush it out, fill with cleanser, flush it again, and fill again with a dose of inhibitor. If you don't trust the rads, then replace them, otherwise leave alone.
 
30 years worth of rust? I really don't think so. You clearly have a very modern circulating pump and recent pump valves, so the system was drained to fit those. Is it perhaps the case that the installer of those components left the system without any corrosion inhibitor in it?

The system was drained to fit them. But the f/e tank was not cleaned at the same time. The build up of sludge in the tank in the f/e tank could well have been there for some time. The house is 30 years old. But you are right that the main circuit has minimal sludge in it.

All the rads work effectively apart from one large one in the front bedroom that seems to collect air/gas and need bleeding every now and then. This is the rad i'd consider replacing as it could be corroded inside. There is no evidence of this on the outside of the rad though. This particular rad has both flow and return on the same side of the rad meaning i'd need to have it repiped in order to get a trv on it.

I wasnt intending to leave cleaner in the system indefinitely - just to clean out any sludge and scale that was in the system (having cleaned out the f/e tank).

Sorry it made you mad but it has been quite enlightening to me!

Thanks again.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top