Socket through a switch

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Can anyone help?

Is it possible i.e. safe to spur off an existing plug socket into a light switch then on to a new socket, basically breaking the new socket with a switch?

Daft question i know but the reason why i ask is that i want to install some plinth lights which are 240v and plug directly into a 13amp socket (not a problem) however, i want to be able to turn them one via a light switch when you enter a room. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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you don't use a light switch, you use a 20A DP switch if you are supplying a socket as a sour.

If you are supplying lights, then they need to be fused down (usually to 3A) and you can use a switched FCU which has a switch and also a fusefolder like this
p2034740_l.jpg

(not all FCUs have switches although it is very common)
 
No, not in the way that you describe. You could spur off via a 3A FCU to a light switch then to a 13A outlet, or you can use a 20A DP switch as suggested by John. Why are you so concerned with keeping the 13A plug on the plinth lights?

A far better solution would be to install a new light switch with an extra gang and then feed the plinth lights from your lighting circuit. If you must have a plug/socket for whatever reason then a 3A round pin might be more suited to this sort of thing.

If the lights run from a moulded plug-in transformer then you can still run a 13A socket from the lighting circuit, but you'll want to install it somewhere out of reach where nobody will ever try and plug anything else into it.
 
"Why are you so concerned with keeping the 13A plug on the plinth lights?"

Electronicsuk the reason being is because the plinth led lights are 12v plugged into a transformer which has a molded plug for 240v mains.

I have a 2 gang light switch that control 2 ceiling lights in the room where i want the plinth lights so if i change the 2 gang switch to a 3 gang switch are you saying i can use the lighting circuit to spur off to a plug socket?

If that is possible how do i wire the light switch?

Thanks again
 
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There is nothing in the regs that say a socket on a light circuit is wrong.

However, you must ensure that nobody can plug anything else into that socket, such as a kettle. The worst that could happen is a MCB trips, or a fuse blows in the fuse box. Providing the circuit is adequately protected.

Put the socket in the back of a cupboard or something.

Have you plugged in these LED lights to try them out? I suspect that as work lights you will be sorely dissapointed with their light output, both in brightness and quality. Fluorescent lights are far better solution, and are proven.

LEDs are great for decorative purposes as they look cool and use next to no electricity! :)

(sorry I may have missed something. Its been a while since i dealt with kitchens. Which bit is the plinth???) :LOL:
 
Tony1

1. You will only be able to wire from the light switch if there is a neutral conductor available (depends on how the property was wired, but there shouldn't be one in the switch)
2. Sockets on a lighting circuit should be round 5 amp 3pin types
k2891whige0.jpg


643whipu7.jpg

Obviously you'd have to change the plug. You often find these installed for standing lamps/table lamps.

So: wire from socket to new light switch and from light switch to 3pin socket as shown above and switch away dear friend.

Scott
 
Thank you for all replies and advice. It seems a little clearer.
Thanks again
 
scott, sorry to keep contradicting you. The lights the OP has have a wall-wart transformer. He cannot remove the plug.
 
So can i not use the 3 pin plug? i have a diagram so you can all see what i would like to do but i have no idea how to attach it to forum.

Steve, the plinth is the piece of timber that runs along the bottom of the units so you dont see underneath. The LEDS are just for decorative purposes.
 
OK in that case, put the socket in the bottom of the cupboards and plug the lights in here. Or put the socket under the cupboards, it makes no difference really. You have isolation elsewhere so it doesnt need to be readily accessible.
 
When routing the cable in the wall is it ok to start horizontal a couple of inch from the existing socket. Vertical to switch. Through switch carrying on Vertically to top of the wall. Horizontal across the wall and finally veritical down to new socket?
 
Tony 1 said:
When routing the cable in the wall is it ok to start horizontal a couple of inch from the existing socket. Vertical to switch. Through switch carrying on Vertically to top of the wall. Horizontal across the wall and finally veritical down to new socket?

No, best read the WIKI on safe zones. You can only run hidden cables vertically or horizontally (but not both!) from an accessory without additional protection or burying them beyond a certain depth.

EDIT: Thinking about it, if you run horizontally just below the ceiling you will be in a safe zone, but you still need to work out an alternative route for the first part of the run.
 
Tony1,
If you want to add a pic you need to host it first on the net (I use Imageshack.us). It's quite straight forward. Once uploaded, the service gives you a line of html text that you need to cut and paste into your post on DIYnot.com.

Hover over the img button when writing a post and it'll give you an example of what the line of text should look like.

Scott :p
 
You MUST have an FCU to fuse it down to 3Amps between the Socket and the light switch.

It could be done with gridswitches but probably better to keep it simple.
 

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