Sockets not working

[jcaan]

Hi guys



Wonder if someone can help



The RCCB is not turning on. The kitchen sockets are not working.



The washing machine fuse switch sparks when you turn it on and smells.



Moreover the consumer unit made sizzling noise when trying to turn it on day later.



I have changed the fuse in the washing machine machine fuse box. Same situation



I have test instruments etc if tests need doing ?



What can be it be and what shall I test for ?

Also please note the fridge socket is the only socket working in the kitchen so I assume it's part of another circuit.

 

[Jurassicspark]

The RCCB is not turning on. The kitchen sockets are not working.

What do you mean by not turning on? Immediately switching off when turned on? Switching off after couple of mins? Or switching off when you turn on a MCB?

The washing machine fuse switch sparks when you turn it on and smells.

Sounds like a fault with the washing machine.

Moreover the consumer unit made sizzling noise when trying to turn it on day later.

Sounds like a loose connection. Do you smell burning?

I have test instruments etc if tests need doing ?

Yes, continuity test from L to E and N with power off from both sides (i.e supply and load terminals). You should be getting an infinite resistance value.

 

[ericmark]

What meters have you got, first one is an insulation tester, tests with 250, 500, or 1000 volts, used with the power off, in the main next two are used with the power on, centre one tests loop impedance and RCD tripping currents and times, and the last one measures both non-contact and contact volts, ohms using just 6 volts I think, and amps both AC and DC both non-contact.

We would start with the blue/black meter and likely that will find the problem, but after qualifying as an electrician, the course for inspection and testing was 12 weeks, at 3 hours per week, so we don't have much chance teaching all that on a forum.

So does the washing machine plug in? If so, testing earth pin to neutral pin, what is the reading, no good testing line pin to earth as likely you need power for it to turn on, so looking for better than 1MΩ.

Pictures always help.

 

[Jurassicspark]

View attachment 374443View attachment 374445View attachment 374444 What meters have you got, first one is an insulation tester, tests with 250, 500, or 1000 volts, used with the power off, in the main next two are used with the power on, centre one tests loop impedance and RCD tripping currents and times, and the last one measures both non-contact and contact volts, ohms using just 6 volts I think, and amps both AC and DC both non-contact.

We would start with the blue/black meter and likely that will find the problem, but after qualifying as an electrician, the course for inspection and testing was 12 weeks, at 3 hours per week, so we don't have much chance teaching all that on a forum.

So does the washing machine plug in? If so, testing earth pin to neutral pin, what is the reading, no good testing line pin to earth as likely you need power for it to turn on, so looking for better than 1MΩ.

At the moment, lets not confuse the OP from testing to N to E. A problem suggested from the OP doesn't look like a neutral to earth fault anyway.

 

[ericmark]

At the moment, lets not confuse the OP from testing to N to E. A problem suggested from the OP doesn't look like a neutral to earth fault anyway.

I suspect the fault is a faulty heater or similar, which will not be made live, until the program starts, however the neutral is likely connected without the program running, so testing neutral to earth is a simple way to by-pass any item only connected when the program is running.

I did once, when in a hurry, test earth to phase with my multi-meter, which showed no fault, however the fault was so much it would blow a 13 amp fuse, returning to the car and getting the insulation tester, it showed a direct short.

I am not expecting @jcaan to have anything more than a multi meter, but he might, so waiting to see what we have to work with.

 

[jcaan]

Hey guys

I will reply properly shortly . I'm just doing school runs atm.

I have megger mft1720

 

[pete01]

I will reply properly shortly . I'm just doing school runs atm.

Did you forget them? Lol..just kidding.

 

[Jurassicspark]

I have megger mft1720

That's a pretty decent piece of equipment.

If you got the relevant knowledge then you should be able to tackle down this issue in no time.

 

[ericmark]

Yes, far better to what I have, and yes you should find the fault with it. It has a 250 volt MΩ range, and I would to start with use that.

So step one, anything you think is connected to the affected circuit switch off, or if you can't switch off draw a fuse, and see if it will reset. I would think you have already done that, and it would not reset?

Now next bit, give some time for people to say I have got it wrong, as I am not too sure this is a correct way, but it is how I would do it, I would turn off the isolator, and switch off all MCB's, remove front of the consumer unit, and test the neutral bar to earth, I would expect a 0MΩ reading, I would then one at a time test each neutral wire disconnected from neutral bar to earth, this should show which circuits have a problem.

Note with a ring final, both neutrals need testing together.

It is a case of slow plod.

But not as yet sure still tripping with all unplugged.

 

[Murdochcat]

Unplug all plugs, try and reset RCD, if this doesn’t work remove fused spur and do visual inspection on the rear face / cables

My guess is that 2 cores were too close and have shorted out.