Solvent Based Satinwood Problems

[MarcusG]

I would appreciate any advice on offer as to which is the easiest oil/solvent-based satinwood to apply on interior woodwork. I have used Dulux Trade and found it hard going! Most recently I have tried Wickes solvent-based satinwood and whilst it is much easier to apply the finish is not to my taste and has dried bluey-white. I need to re-paint the doors as they look rather odd! I believe that Hempel manufactures for Wickes.
As said any advice on other brands would be ideal.

Thanks Marcus

 

[Chivas69]

Why has it got to be oil/solvent based? There are some great water based trade satins out there. These will stay white too.

 

[MarcusG]

Why has it got to be oil/solvent based? There are some great water based trade satins out there. These will stay white too.

I don't get on with the water-based I find them hard to use. I've only just stopped using gloss and started with satin. I recently tried a water based Satin and found it extremely thick even after stirring. In addition, it dries so quickly and leaves the most awful brush marks.

 

[Chivas69]

Personal choice obviously. I've recently been using the dulux diamond trade satin and it goes on a treat and so much whiter than oil based. All doors were rollered so zero brush marks.
I did use some leyland trade oil based a few times a couple of years ago that went on great.

 

[opps]

I am a professional decorator. When working with Dulux Trade oil based eggshell or satinwood, I add a tiny amount of white spirit and, more importantly, I add Owatrol oil. Owatrol is a god send- it helps the paint flow and settle.

Owatrol Oil | Rust Inhibiter Paint | Owatrol Direct

A powerful rust inhibitor which penetrates through rusted surfaces to isolate sound metal below & a paint conditioner for oil-based paints improving flow.

www.owatroldirect.co.uk

It isn't a cheap additive but you only need a small amount. I purchased 5L in 2020, and I still have about 3L left- and I primarily work with oil based paints.

Unlike white spirit, the Owatrol doesn't "thin" the paint, it helps it flow without thinning it.

I could not achieve the quality of finish that I aspire to without Owatrol oil.

 

[Wayners]

With waterbased paints you need to apply way thicker than you think and fast enough for the paint to level out. You can buy a paint thickness measuring tool for less than £5 and follow the paint manufacturers data sheet guide. When you sort that out its much easier to paint with and great results.
Roller to apply then tip off with a brush if you must. 5 mins a side on doors is all it takes. I guess your too slow messing about with a brush and it's streaky and patchy.
Tip
With doors take off and screw wood legs to the ends. Paint one side then flip over and paint the other. Paint frame. Give it a couple of hours and hang door back up.
Makes painting doors really easy and no runs if they are horizontal.

As for oil based that has changed to meet EU regs and not the same product. Some add thinners and hardners to try get it to perform like it used to before the changes..

 

[opps]

As for oil based that has changed to meet EU regs and not the same product. Some add thinners and hardners to try get it to perform like it used to before the changes..

The 2010 EU VOC compliance made oil based paints a tad more awkward to work with, but, in my opinion, any oil based, paint made after 2010 is one par with old skool paints

 

[Wayners]

@opps
The new paint with lower VOC apply much thicker. Takes longer to dry and smells a bit stronger. Yellows faster.
Probably still the best to use outside I guess. Trade centres still sell loads so I guess it's still popular.
I gave up on it years ago. I understand what your saying.

 

[opps]

@opps
The new paint with lower VOC apply much thicker. Takes longer to dry and smells a bit stronger. Yellows faster.
Probably still the best to use outside I guess. Trade centres still sell loads so I guess it's still popular.
I gave up on it years ago. I understand what your saying.

From 2010 to 2012, the paints took ages to dry and yellowed very quickly. From 2012, they don't seem to yellow any faster than pre 2010 paints.

I completely understand why people choose to use waterbased paints. Less smelly, faster drying, non-yellowing and easier to clean up. They do however have some limitations- I am not aware of a single manufacturer that admits that their waterbased paints will become soft if subjected to oils in people's skin, nor do they tell customers that contact with ferrous items, such as coins will leave black marks.