Some wires missing from this Ford alternator?

[robinbanks]

I've a 2013 Ford Galaxy with a 2.0 TDCi engine. For some time been having slight electrical issues; soon after shutting off the engine (but keeping radio on for example) see a "Low Battery" message on the dash. Occasionally a red battery light appears while driving (and I believe this is "smart alternator is operating in dumb mode"?)

If I check the battery with a multimeter I might find it less than 12v even after a run, and a couple of times recently I've read sub 12v with the engine running (but then when i checked again after 5 minutes drive it was reading 13.5v)

Other odd symptoms, the power steering jerking and being difficult to turn the wheel (kicking back against the turning effort) - I think this is something to do with low battery voltage as it appears to be an electric PS pump, and one time when it was doing it at night the headlights were flickering in line with the steering jerking

Also, a strange whirring/purring/soft whining sound that changes in line with engine revs - if the car had had a mechanical PS pump I'd have said the fluid was low, but it's not quite a sharp a sound as that, it's a bit softer and is present all the time, even when the steering isn't being used. Fluid level in the ps bottle is ok

There's hot/burning kind of smell, not as sharp/acrid as a cooking clutch, in the general engine bay area

At the moment I'm thinking to swap the alternator and see if anything changes, but the thing I was curious about is that the multi plug going to the alternator only seems to have one wire, and I thought Ford smart systems had 3?

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Sounds like an alternator fault but difficult to prove on here.

Should be a bolt on wire and a multi plug .

From experience, if you change it, don't use a cheap aftermarket 1. Genuine ford or good quality only

 

[robinbanks]

I can see the bolt on wire and a plug that's big enough to be a multi plug but that wire visible in the photo is the only wire coming out of the plug.. I thought there were 3 and two of them were some PWM control signals for alternator output..

It seems an easy enough op to swap once access is gained that it's worth trying a reman alternator, I think?

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Don't don't don't use a cheap alternator.

They never work on fords

 

[Jurassicspark]

At the moment I'm thinking to swap the alternator and see if anything changes, but the thing I was curious about is that the multi plug going to the alternator only seems to have one wire, and I thought Ford smart systems had 3?

Has the alternator ever been replaced before? I can recall from the top of my head (yes i seem to remember unwanted things) that you had some faults before linked with charging.

 

[robinbanks]

Don't don't don't use a cheap alternator.

They never work on fords

Looking at ebay item 173952553996 from a well rated seller (rotating solutions shop) that only seems to reman alternators - it was described as "genuine valeo alternator reconditioned using genuine parts, 12 month warranty". What do you think?

If it doesn't work out I guess I have the option of returning it and giving ECP 170 quid for an exchange Lucas one..

 

[robinbanks]

Has the alternator ever been replaced before? I can recall from the top of my head (yes i seem to remember unwanted things) that you had some faults before linked with charging.

What a great memeory - probably this thread https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...attery-voltage-current-draw-over-time.611028/

Didn't replace the alternator then, only the battery. The problems of the battery going flat seemed to mostly go away when the car settings for the alarm were changed from "full guard" to "reduced" so at the time I put it down to excess parasitic drain.. Now that I've got more odd symptoms I'm returning to looking at the charging system

 

[flameport]

I've read sub 12v with the engine running (but then when i checked again after 5 minutes drive it was reading 13.5v)

Should be 14+ with the engine running.

it was described as "genuine valeo alternator reconditioned using genuine parts, 12 month warranty".

Like most things on ebay, it's a piece of junk. Anyone can describe anything in any way they want with zero consequences.

Considering that the alternator will affect every electrical system in the vehicle and a busted or faulty one has the potential to destroy electronics, why would anyone bother with a dodgy refurbished affair just to save £50?

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Looking at ebay item 173952553996 from a well rated seller (rotating solutions shop) that only seems to reman alternators - it was described as "genuine valeo alternator reconditioned using genuine parts, 12 month warranty". What do you think?

Wouldn't even fit it. My best advice from experience is fit a ford unit. Or high quality aftermarket, Bosch, valeo etc.

Had to refit too many cheap ones, including a decent mid range unit that just started smoking as soon as the car started.

Fit what you want though

If it doesn't work out I guess I have the option of returning it and giving ECP 170 quid for an exchange Lucas one..

Try other places too. Lucas is just a brand name now, it's not the quality it was

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

There's hot/burning kind of smell, not as sharp/acrid as a cooking clutch, in the general engine bay area

Could be shorted turns on the alternator - Try using a bit of flexible pipe, to take a sniff closer to the alternator, after a run.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Like most things on ebay, it's a piece of junk.

What nonsense.

Will you please stop making these blanket statements about things?

 

[Jurassicspark]

Didn't replace the alternator then, only the battery. The problems of the battery going flat seemed to mostly go away when the car settings for the alarm were changed from "full guard" to "reduced" so at the time I put it down to excess parasitic drain.. Now that I've got more odd symptoms I'm returning to looking at the charging system

Right. Have you replaced the alternator yet?

I had similar issues to yours but on a Zafira. The alternator had 4 wires, two of them were the charging for the battery and the other 2 (control wires) came from the ECM. I checked the control wires with my scope and i saw the computer was commanding the alternator so i replaced the alternator and the problem went away.

You only got one wire though. I'm thinking it could be LIN from the ECM. Have you carried out voltage drop tests from the alternator to the battery?