Regardless of accuracy you should always check level twice, second time with level reversed. If it reads the same both ways its level. I have an adjustable glaziers level and check it regularly on a dead level surface. Also I would never use a bubble for verticle on a long level - a hairline out on the bubble of a 6ft level will be half inch out on the length. I allways use a plumb rule made of yellow pine with a lead weight.
To be honest I very rarely use a level , only for frames and gutters really and I have a 4' stabila which is fine. I did buy a forgesteel boat level just to see how they are and despite not being used much it's quite badly out. I'm going to take it apart and see if there is anything I can do with it.
Years ago I had a rabone level (well I still have it but the vials are quite badly scratched it's hard to read) and it had one of those bubbles that can be swivelled around. Working on a job and putting in some oak studs and found that it was impossible to put them in plumb, the beams at top and bottom just weren't in line so I put them in and then set the bubble to the studs.
Architect comes along and says "are those studs plumb?"
So I just lift the level up and hold it to the studs.
"ah yes lovely" says the architect and carries on to check something else.
A glaziers level is extremely acurate as they use an almost flat bubble. This has the effect of very slightly out of level and the bubble flies off the end! The same type of bubble is used on theodolites, at least the older ones - the modern self levelling tools use a balanced weight.
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