Oh look - another oven designed with the expectation that it'll be plugged into a standard-in-the-rest-of-Europe 16A circuit...
You can't plug it in here, or use an FCU, or put it on the cooker circuit protected by the breaker in the CU, so you've got 2 choices:
1) Use the existing cooker circuit for the hob, and install a new 16A radial for the oven.
2) Use the existing cooker circuit to supply a 2 or 3-way CU with a 20/32A breaker for the hob (depending on your attitude to diversity) and a 16A one for the oven. Plus possibly a 6A one for a hood.
The latter are law, and compliance with the former will ensure compliance with some of the latter, but not all. And you can have the shiniest, most impressive and most up-to-date electrical qualifications you care to name, but unless you are a registered electrician they will not give you the authority to certify that your work complies with the Building Regulations, and will not remove the requirement for you to notify the work in advance to Building Control.
That you can do the work safely and competently is not the issue, nor am I disputing that any subsequent PIR would give it all a clean bill of health, but a PIR serves only to allay a buyer's concerns, it is not a substitute for a Building Regulations completion certificate. Were you qualified to the hilt and 100% justified in issuing an EIC for the work that would also not be a substitute for a Building Regulations completion certificate.
If you are asked, in the future, whether you had controlled work done you would either have to lie or to say "yes, but I didn't seek approval for it and I have no completion certificate". You might then be OK with paying for a PIR and offering to have any defects remedied. Or you might not - not from the POV of legal action against you, but imagine being in that situation in today's property market with a hard-nosed buyer - just how much do you think he would beat the price down once you'd given him the stick of unauthorised and illegal work having been done?
Anyway - it's your call to make, nobody here is going to shop you or refuse to give advice on how to carry out notifiable work, but please make sure you're fully informed when you make the call.
You can't plug it in here, or use an FCU, or put it on the cooker circuit protected by the breaker in the CU, so you've got 2 choices:
1) Use the existing cooker circuit for the hob, and install a new 16A radial for the oven.
2) Use the existing cooker circuit to supply a 2 or 3-way CU with a 20/32A breaker for the hob (depending on your attitude to diversity) and a 16A one for the oven. Plus possibly a 6A one for a hood.
I'm still not convinced that you've grasped the difference between compliance with the Wiring Regulations and compliance with the Building Regulations.I understand i should pay for an electrician to come out and do the work for me, but with my background this work should be day 1 stuff, its just about getting it right first time as things may have moved on since then.
I have the hand skills to do the jobs, and have an domestic & commercial electrical background. I still have (probably well run out by now) my old C&G 236 Pt 1 (electrical installations), some JTL thing and the old 16th editition certificates in my old record of achievements.
The latter are law, and compliance with the former will ensure compliance with some of the latter, but not all. And you can have the shiniest, most impressive and most up-to-date electrical qualifications you care to name, but unless you are a registered electrician they will not give you the authority to certify that your work complies with the Building Regulations, and will not remove the requirement for you to notify the work in advance to Building Control.
That you can do the work safely and competently is not the issue, nor am I disputing that any subsequent PIR would give it all a clean bill of health, but a PIR serves only to allay a buyer's concerns, it is not a substitute for a Building Regulations completion certificate. Were you qualified to the hilt and 100% justified in issuing an EIC for the work that would also not be a substitute for a Building Regulations completion certificate.
If you are asked, in the future, whether you had controlled work done you would either have to lie or to say "yes, but I didn't seek approval for it and I have no completion certificate". You might then be OK with paying for a PIR and offering to have any defects remedied. Or you might not - not from the POV of legal action against you, but imagine being in that situation in today's property market with a hard-nosed buyer - just how much do you think he would beat the price down once you'd given him the stick of unauthorised and illegal work having been done?
Anyway - it's your call to make, nobody here is going to shop you or refuse to give advice on how to carry out notifiable work, but please make sure you're fully informed when you make the call.
Up to scratch maybe, but still not legally able to carry out notifiable work without informing LABC in advance and paying their fee.I know work are running 17th edition courses for £180 through the local college, might be worth getting this as they will pay for most of it as we carry out our own PAT testing then a basic domestic installer course to get my Part P and back up to scratch again.