Standalone elec cooker to elec hob & oven

Oh look - another oven designed with the expectation that it'll be plugged into a standard-in-the-rest-of-Europe 16A circuit...

You can't plug it in here, or use an FCU, or put it on the cooker circuit protected by the breaker in the CU, so you've got 2 choices:

1) Use the existing cooker circuit for the hob, and install a new 16A radial for the oven.

2) Use the existing cooker circuit to supply a 2 or 3-way CU with a 20/32A breaker for the hob (depending on your attitude to diversity) and a 16A one for the oven. Plus possibly a 6A one for a hood.


I understand i should pay for an electrician to come out and do the work for me, but with my background this work should be day 1 stuff, its just about getting it right first time as things may have moved on since then.

I have the hand skills to do the jobs, and have an domestic & commercial electrical background. I still have (probably well run out by now) my old C&G 236 Pt 1 (electrical installations), some JTL thing and the old 16th editition certificates in my old record of achievements.
I'm still not convinced that you've grasped the difference between compliance with the Wiring Regulations and compliance with the Building Regulations.

The latter are law, and compliance with the former will ensure compliance with some of the latter, but not all. And you can have the shiniest, most impressive and most up-to-date electrical qualifications you care to name, but unless you are a registered electrician they will not give you the authority to certify that your work complies with the Building Regulations, and will not remove the requirement for you to notify the work in advance to Building Control.

That you can do the work safely and competently is not the issue, nor am I disputing that any subsequent PIR would give it all a clean bill of health, but a PIR serves only to allay a buyer's concerns, it is not a substitute for a Building Regulations completion certificate. Were you qualified to the hilt and 100% justified in issuing an EIC for the work that would also not be a substitute for a Building Regulations completion certificate.

If you are asked, in the future, whether you had controlled work done you would either have to lie or to say "yes, but I didn't seek approval for it and I have no completion certificate". You might then be OK with paying for a PIR and offering to have any defects remedied. Or you might not - not from the POV of legal action against you, but imagine being in that situation in today's property market with a hard-nosed buyer - just how much do you think he would beat the price down once you'd given him the stick of unauthorised and illegal work having been done?

Anyway - it's your call to make, nobody here is going to shop you or refuse to give advice on how to carry out notifiable work, but please make sure you're fully informed when you make the call.


I know work are running 17th edition courses for £180 through the local college, might be worth getting this as they will pay for most of it as we carry out our own PAT testing then a basic domestic installer course to get my Part P and back up to scratch again.
Up to scratch maybe, but still not legally able to carry out notifiable work without informing LABC in advance and paying their fee.
 
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If you do that you won't be complying with the manufacturer's instructions regarding the fusing for the oven. But on that subject, can you actually have the grill and the oven elements on at the same time?

If not then the thing will never present a load of more than 2k2W and you can put a plug on it or connect it via an FCU to a socket circuit.

If they can then it's a 4k4W load, so the 16A fuse rating doesn't make sense...
 
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I know - it's utter madness.

A 3kW oven, with an assumed duty cycle of 2 hours per day (for example) will be classified as a 0.25kW/h appliance.

Zero use to anybody. :evil:
 
Re Option 2 above: the single socket will be rated at 13?A, in the setup you suggest all the current for both hob and oven would be connected in these terminals

Like 13A socket outlets in a 32A circuit, you mean?

Well no, not really as on a 32A ring final you'd have 2x2.5mm cables on a ring with presumably not more than 20A thru any set of terminals as opposed to 2x6mm cables on a radial with who knows what going through the terminals (presumably more than 20A if it 'has to be wired in 6mm' and it's a typical hob . . .6kw?)
 
Re Option 2 above: the single socket will be rated at 13?A, in the setup you suggest all the current for both hob and oven would be connected in these terminals

Like 13A socket outlets in a 32A circuit, you mean?

Well no, not really as on a 32A ring final you'd have 2x2.5mm cables on a ring with presumably not more than 20A thru any set of terminals as opposed to 2x6mm cables on a radial with who knows what going through the terminals (presumably more than 20A if it 'has to be wired in 6mm' and it's a typical hob . . .6kw?)

My point was that both circuits are protected by a 32A MCB & have the potential to run up to that value. You presume 20A, but it could be more.
 
FTB, seeing as you're an ex spark and can replace and test a CU in 3.5hrs!!! (re yr other post) You really should know that a MCB wont actually trip at it's rated current and you should definitely know that you shouldn't connect any appliance to a 32A ring final without some kind of fusing down, be that a FCU or plug-top :eek:

Also fixed appliances using more than 2000w should be on their own circuit
 
Re Option 2 above: the single socket will be rated at 13?A, in the setup you suggest all the current for both hob and oven would be connected in these terminals

Like 13A socket outlets in a 32A circuit, you mean?

Well no, not really as on a 32A ring final you'd have 2x2.5mm cables on a ring with presumably not more than 20A thru any set of terminals as opposed to 2x6mm cables on a radial with who knows what going through the terminals (presumably more than 20A if it 'has to be wired in 6mm' and it's a typical hob . . .6kw?)

My point was that both circuits are protected by a 32A MCB & have the potential to run up to that value. You presume 20A, but it could be more.

Fair enough, point taken

Out of interest though, just how much current would be drawn through one leg of a badly loaded RF? . . . Worst case scenario a 100m long RF with a load of 32A ~1m away from the CU . . . How much current through each leg of the ring? Bugg**ed if I can work it out and presumably the resistance of the short leg would increase dramatically as it warmed up? Anyone any ideas?
 

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