Steel post for hip point??
- Thread starter Rad1o
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Theoretically speaking.....
I reckon a hip would be fairly stable if it were constructed so that the jacks touched and that a 'false' hip blade was fixed in between the touching jacks so that you have a fragmented hip merely keeping all the jacks apart.
This would still need to be solid from wall plate up to ridge gusset junction.
This theory would indicate that the hip offers stability rather than support.
Probably.
I reckon a hip would be fairly stable if it were constructed so that the jacks touched and that a 'false' hip blade was fixed in between the touching jacks so that you have a fragmented hip merely keeping all the jacks apart.
This would still need to be solid from wall plate up to ridge gusset junction.
This theory would indicate that the hip offers stability rather than support.
Probably.
Well done...not as stupid as you lookBazzinga
Sponsored Links
Thank you for all the replies.
Our builder has frowned when he met the structural engineer... and so has the Building Inspector when he saw who did our plans...
The plans had to go back to the structural engineer to have padstones recalculated and also to have dragon ties added to "secure" the hip ends at the request of the BI.
I have attached screen shots of our 1. and 2. floor plans and now revised structural engineer's drawings.
Our builder has frowned when he met the structural engineer... and so has the Building Inspector when he saw who did our plans...
The plans had to go back to the structural engineer to have padstones recalculated and also to have dragon ties added to "secure" the hip ends at the request of the BI.
I have attached screen shots of our 1. and 2. floor plans and now revised structural engineer's drawings.
Obviously the hips have been designed for half the jack rafter load (and look about the right size considering that)
But first point is: If hip rafter "E" is capable of spanning to the dormer wall in the bottom left corner, then the hip in the top left corner should be able to do the same...so no post is required.
Second, why mess about with loads of different grades of timber. Why bother specifying C22 and C24? Just go for C24 for simplicity. The cost difference will be negligible and I believe it's more readily available anyway.
That is a mahoosive ridge beam!!
But first point is: If hip rafter "E" is capable of spanning to the dormer wall in the bottom left corner, then the hip in the top left corner should be able to do the same...so no post is required.
Second, why mess about with loads of different grades of timber. Why bother specifying C22 and C24? Just go for C24 for simplicity. The cost difference will be negligible and I believe it's more readily available anyway.
That is a mahoosive ridge beam!!
Are posts 1 and 2 absolutely necessaary to support the hips?
Would there be another solution that our fantastic structural engineer has not used to avoid them?
I did say I did not want posts in the middle of the room / loft.
Would there be another solution that our fantastic structural engineer has not used to avoid them?
I did say I did not want posts in the middle of the room / loft.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Similar threads
