step by step loft conversion,step 1?

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Hi All.
Iv had plans drawn up but figured I could do a lot of the donkey work myself,hopefully saving a few bob along the way. I need a floor installed with three rsjs,this im getting a few quotes for,then sourcing the stairs ect,doing it bit by bit.
Anyway,before they even start on the floor am I right in thinking does all the resident insulation have to be removed up to the eves or just to the point of where the trusses or struts or whatever they are called are as this is the point where the room will be plasterboarded,can I leave it insulated in the area of the eves,or is this still classed as part of the new room even though its not actually part of the roomwhen the room is boxed off?!!?
Also the floor needs chickwireing and insulation to building regs,again a job I could do . Am I right in thinking this is the first way to go,or are there other jobs which I may/maynot need to do first?
This is going to be an interesting few months/years for me !
Im aware of the firedoors wired smoke detectors moe ect are NOT for me,but reckon on studwalling roof insulation velux and thefew bits i mentioned ealier I could get on with,so what do you think,do the jobs on the floor I mentioned earlier meself as a first starter?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated,but dont bite my head off please!! :oops:
 
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First off the eves dont have to be cleared of exsiting insulation, unless the celins below are not 1/2 hour fire proof ( plaster board 1/2 inch ) if they are latt and plaster then they will need to be chicken wired then R33 put in, but if its plaster borared, it will still need extra insulation to meet regs.

The bi allows in my area to put your new floor in then chicken wire the new joists ( floor ) then add fire proof or extra insulation,

What i would say is that if you get a proper loft conversion team in, they would be a bit miffed doing abit of work then waiting till you do your bit then having to restart after you. ;)
 
chers markie,
its a plasterboard ceiling,so if I just double up the existing insulation in the eves I can leave alone or does it require a different new fire saftey reg imflamble to be put in its place?
I know what you mean about a team comming in,but I am asking about for some one who can be as flexible as me on times and stuff, fit me in when they can,do a bit,get paid then come back mabye months later for another job ectI have 3 years from the off with building regs sorted so no big rush,just finding someone who will bend like stretch armstrong (but hes off on the sick isnt he!)
Any other thoughts people please add them ,I know others who are a bit unsure of where to start ,so come on guys ,help us out!! :D
 
It has to be 1/2 " plaster board, and the insulation can be the normal stuff, acoustic rolls are what they normally want between the new floor joists, for sound.
 
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mikell,

your pretty brave. i've been thinking of doing same but not got to point of being confident to go for it (the breakdown of the steps).

have found the following good http://www.internode.co.uk/loft/index.htm

in terms of step 1 floor - i would also give some thought to the service routes (pipes, cables, particularly soil pipe) as i think these will need to go in after the new flooring joists/rsj's
 
not really jerry,as I say all the major stuff Im leaving to the guys in the know,the rest we read about,pick up the best tips we can and slowly have a go!! I had a few quotes for a full fit ranging from 15000 to about 25000,but when I looked at it for a bedroom nowt flash,Ithink I can get this wayyy cheaper by shopping around,eg I m told the 8 firedoors would set me back about 900 quid,but with a bit of shopping I think I could do that for about half that inc fitting (i have the doors sourced 30 min fds 120 quid for the seven!) stair factory near my workplace will do my stairs for 530 from my plans, not the 2000 qouted by the professionals Iv had in. I understand they need to make a profit but I can see already where money can be saved.A bit of self belief I have but not inflated where Id try to put the floor or the stairs in and kill us all!!
I JUST NEED MORE HELP PLEASE GENTS!!! AND JERRY DOES TOO!! :D
 
i think your approach is spot on.

further thought from previous experience which may or may not be of use depending upon who did the plans. i've used a structural engineer a few times in the past and found there costs are paid back many times in doing the work. what i am thinking about is the 3 rsj's which sound expensive to get in. it might be worth getting a 2nd opinion on the "structural design" as a more efficient arrgt may be possible (roof bracing/floor joist support). typ thinking of proprietary structural wooden joists along lines of flitch beam.
 
not really jerry,as I say all the major stuff Im leaving to the guys in the know,the rest we read about,pick up the best tips we can and slowly have a go!! I had a few quotes for a full fit ranging from 15000 to about 25000,but when I looked at it for a bedroom nowt flash,Ithink I can get this wayyy cheaper by shopping around,eg I m told the 8 firedoors would set me back about 900 quid,but with a bit of shopping I think I could do that for about half that inc fitting (i have the doors sourced 30 min fds 120 quid for the seven!) stair factory near my workplace will do my stairs for 530 from my plans, not the 2000 qouted by the professionals Iv had in. I understand they need to make a profit but I can see already where money can be saved.A bit of self belief I have but not inflated where Id try to put the floor or the stairs in and kill us all!!
I JUST NEED MORE HELP PLEASE GENTS!!! AND JERRY DOES TOO!! :D

I think your spot in what your trying to do... Thats the whole point of the Forum... DIY....

I always say if your confident you can do a job well and safe, then give it a go.....

Hope this goes well, also keep this post uptodate with how your getting on, im sure several people will be interested, let alone myself as this will be a challenge for me later in the year.....
 
just bought firedoor frames (missus says im trying too many things at once,but its only bits here and there at the moment!) I may try to fit one doorframe see how it goes,cos I have to cut it to size and rip my frames out :eek: .
I wont be trying to fit the doors though as BRegs are really spot on on this (so iv read ,so will leave this to the main men,the joiners).
if I dont get it as square as I should will just get a joiner in to do the rest,nothing ventured.....
ps. I have bought the frames from one place and when they are fitted will try to get doors to fit the space,is this reasonable or should I have bought them as a kit?
thanks for the encouragement guys too! :LOL:
 
i am amazed that it's necessary to change the frames. would have expected straight swap of existing door with fire door and change of door furniture ie hinges, handle and closure.

normal doors always need fitting (electric plane ideally needed) so would expect same with fire doors so would say ok not to buy as a kit.

i always find the bco and inspectors very helpful. have you got your application in as it would be useful to get their 1st visit to talk through the plans to get further help and guidance?
 
hi j,
I was on the phone to them yesterday and it seems yes I do need new door frames (but this is the strange bit) ,if my doors are quite old and heavy ,they should be ok they said( which they are not im afrain!). But surely if my doors could be ok then the frames should be too? strange.Also different hinges needed and three per door apparently.
I only had two copies of the plans and they want 4 submitted so have to wait for them to arrive before putting them in for inspection. I agree with what you say about the rsjs as they may well come back and say sistering across the span with hangers or whatever may be a better and cheaper option than the steel,but will have to wait and see.
I was also told I cant put down the chicken wire or the insulation yet as it goes in after the new floor structure is in,so thats that one out of the window!
I was told I can get on with the doors/ frames in the meantime and they will get checked on their first visit.
plenty of time anyway!
 
for info the fire doors also need different handles and self closers.

i know what they mean about the old doors, they are solid wood with no thin panelling - not many of them left now though.

i would also think about sorting a cash account at a builders merchants to get best price. i use beasley & fildes which i think will also be local to you.
 
yeah good idea on the builders account as I would end up B&Qing and would prob save there as well will check em out ,ta. Just out of hospital after op on my arm so wont be doing nowt for a while,off work with loads of jobs to do ,and only one arm(! :rolleyes: for now!)
 
just been to deeside icerink with the mrs and kids,its naff sitting by minding all the bags and coats like someones granny! feeling sorry for meself now! :(
 

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