Sticking plasterboard to wall

[legs-akimbo]

Hey its only early doors yet, this is only the first page. Glad to hear your project was a success .
You have to appreciate that J.B is a limited performer, a reserve team player for Darlington in the spread stakes, so dot and dab would be something he could do all day long with relative success...Well c'mon I could not resist the carrot dangled in front of me.
Merry Christmasto you to Mick ....and you as well J.Bonding ya great feckin eejit!

 

[jbonding]

Cut all your boards first. Have them all in place against the wall and marked with an offcut of board at all edges. Then you know exactly where each board starts and finishes. Just use the edge of your trowell(right hand side) to put a smidge on the wall then with the other side of the trowell a little more on the same dab so as to raise a peak of adhesive... Do this for each and every dab....hard to explain!!
Window reveals or pillars cut the board a little oversize then trim back with a stanley knife when dry.

i used to do it this way when i was just learning but theres a quicker way get your tape measure and measure 1200 and mark with the bit of board. use a seperate trowel for dabbing, one your not scared of abusing put dabs on the length of your trowel by tapping the edge of a fully loaded trowel dont cut your reveals over size and cut back or the margins will be different,come on legs cut your reveals the same margin and work to them. marking backboxes with a bit of board and banging a board against it leaves a perfect mark to cut out sockets

 

[jbonding]

Cheers for that legs,

I just had a surf around that link you sent me and i noticed a tutorial pdf that i have just read. Explains all about dabbing.

I was going to render the inside of the new extension once the roof is on but i think i will now dry line it.

While i was doing my friends i had to put a piece in at the top. His ceillings were about 5" taller than the boards, Is it correct to piece at the top?

Mick

there are 9/10 foot boards available, its not a problem fitting a piece at the top but the next piece on the next board should go at the bottom so the joints are staggered to reduce cracking, come on legs

 

[jbonding]

Hey its only early doors yet, this is only the first page. Glad to hear your project was a success .
You have to appreciate that J.B is a limited performer, a reserve team player for Darlington in the spread stakes, so dot and dab would be something he could do all day long with relative success...Well c'mon I could not resist the carrot dangled in front of me.
Merry Christmasto you to Mick ....and you as well J.Bonding ya great feckin eejit!

my skills stretch to any thing plasterwize ive told you before legs im not just taught rendering im what you would call a plastathelite and a merry christmas to you

 

[Mick Leek]

Thats more like it I thought you 2 had fallen out for a min as in really fallen out (not talking to each other at all)...

I think you two respect each other really

 

[legs-akimbo]

Very rarely do you get cracks on D&D and quite frankly staggered joints may be the "correct" method but I do not have the time or inclination to bugger about with alternating the cut....I Dot and dabbed my own house that I built almost single handedly two years ago, and not a smidge of a crack anywhere at all upstairs. Downstairs I hardwalled, render and set, and there are a number of hairline cracks, thats the nature of the beast!!.
You have your way of doing things J.B. and I have mine ....but I know who would be the faster, and the richer.

Anyway, that aside, what do you know of the bazooka tapeing machines.
There is beginning to be an upturn in tapeing and jointing where I live, and apart from the fact that no one can dot and dab (though some try) any tapeing is done by hand, very slow and laborious
There is a three day course at British Gypsym in Nottingham that you need to take to buy or rent their authorised machines. I know they are not cheap for a full kit of 8 10 and 12" boxes, internals, sanding machine etc etc but this could be a real opportunity to strike while the iron is hot and before some other crowd get in on the act first. Any experience of the machine tapeing J.B.

 

[jbonding]

ive seen them used on site but never used them. ive never got into taping and jointing the thought of filling all them screw holes and proud screws would send me mad never mind the worst job of all, sanding down.these machines are ideal like a joddy if youve got loads to go at. the setting up and cleaning takes up a lot of time and ill be honest id be quicker than most tapers and machines with my trowel and stanley knife.i wouldnt bother with the course if you can plaster, do a bit of research or try the materials out for yourself. taping and jointing is only as good as the boarding. a few years ago these machines were over a grand but if theres loads to go at its worth investing, i know lads who do it and its a good screw if you can get a couple of young lads in front of you and following you up behind sanding, its a job you can pick up pretty quick and train someone pretty quick and if its coming in get every kid in your area and jump on it.

 

[Mick Leek]

JB,

You mentioned 9 & 10 foot boards in an earlier reply, Are these readily available or do you order them especially ?

I had a look around but dont seem to see anyone stocking them ?

Also taping the joints ? i have seen this stuff. Looks a little like jute webbing, is this to stop cracks ? How is it applied ?

Mick

 

[jbonding]

look here http://www.keelsupply.co.uk/