Stop Cock...

[MarkFish]

Our stop cock isn't 22mm. I assume it isn't metric. (Most likely dates from 1960.)

It seems to have 1/2 or maybe 1/3 cast into it.

The tap is dripping a bit and I'd like to replace the whole tap assembly rather than taking it apart and putting a new o-ring in.

Is there a source of these taps I can just screw in?


If I *have* to replace the o-ring, is there likely to be a source of the right o-ring? Have a got a good chance of getting the tap assembly apart without cracking the brass?

Excuse my total lack of the vocabulary to explain exactly what I'm looking for but I hope someone will decypher it.

 

[denso13]

Change the washer, similar to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAPnepUbWvE

 

[MarkFish]

Change the washer, similar to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAPnepUbWvE

I'm not convinced I need a washer - the problem is the tap is dripping a bit round the handle when open. So I guess there's some kind of o-ring in there?

 

[Servotech]

I reckon you just need to re-pack or tighten the gland.
It's the hex nut just below the crutch.
Forget about replacing the stop tap I can see from the short picture that it's not a job for a diyer (not many plumbers would even want to take that job on)!

 

[denso13]

I'm not convinced I need a washer

Sorry, I misunderstood, thought you meant the stopcock was passing and tap dripping. As Servo says, re-pack or tighten the gland.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Try tightening the gland nut (small nut where shaft enters main body of tap) SLIGHTLY first. If that doesn't work, re-pack gland as in this video. You don't need to use the Locktite as in the video, a cheap roll of PTFE will do it.

 

[MarkFish]

Many thanks all, I know exactly what to do now.

Sadly the gland nut looks a bit cross threaded to me. Hard to tell under the crud. Hopefully it will just turn out to be the way the casting was made. I'll clean it up before doing anything.

This was supposed to be a five-minute-job between paint coats.

I think I can guess why the replacement of the stop cock will be a problem but can someone spell it out to me?

I assume sourcing a complete new mechanism for this tap is impossible?

 

[doitall]

Stopcock looks like a Yorkshire imperial metal, YP508.

Would need to see the handle.

Ash them whether the metric will fit the old imperial.

 

[MarkFish]

Stopcock looks like a Yorkshire imperial metal, YP508.

Would need to see the handle.

Ask them whether the metric will fit the old imperial.

Identifying the tap woul dbe great. Here's a shot with the handle:

Is it a YP508?

 

[doitall]

Nope.

If you scrape the paint off there may be a make on it, although I expect just the BS number.

 

[Charnwood]

The makers name/logo, kitemark and BS number will be on the other side of the valve.

Not a YP508. 508 is double union.
Yorkshire used to do a single union stopcock - YP505, I think - but that had a 'bell' covering the gland nut etc, IIRC.

 

[doitall]

Not a Yorkshire Charnwood, wrong handle.

The makers name should be on the polished brass of the stuffing box.

it will say bs 1010 then name

 

[MANDATE]

The best method of repairing, is to repack the 'gland'.
It would mean removing all that is left of the old material after removing the gland packing nut.
Gland packing material is available in many sizes and 3mm by 3mm would be ideal. ( I got mine from Preston Marina )
It can be wrapped around the spindle in a spiral or better still single washers ( like a spring washer) can be made and placed on top of each other making sure the gaps are opposite.
The material incorporates a type of graphite grease

 

[MarkFish]

MANY THANKS ALL!

In fact the gland nut thread was fine.

A bit of PTFE in gland a pinch of the gland nut and all is well.

I'm going to take a great deal of care of that stop cock over the (hopefully) coming decades.