Stopcock on mains water

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Are there any issues with replacing the stopcock on the mains water coming into the house with a lever valve? I find the latter easier to use and perhaps longer lasting too?

The stop cock has a broken mechanism at the top and is it difficult to open.
 
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If you're going to use a lever you should put a check valve after it. Stopcocks incorporate a backflow protection function in the form of a loose jumper type washer, so this needs to be replicated with your lever valve. Alternatively, fit a SureStop
 
Stopcocks incorporate a backflow protection function

When going through my water regs, we were always instructed to fit a check valve and drain after any stop tap, be it wind down or lever as there isn't a verifiable backflow protection inbuilt within the tap, never say never though.
 
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Thanks guys. On a related note, is it best practice to switch water off from the mains when going away on holiday?
In case it matters, I have a megaflo system, Worcester system boiler, underfloor heating on ground floor and radiators upstairs.
 
Thanks guys. On a related note, is it best practice to switch water off from the mains when going away on holiday?
In case it matters, I have a megaflo system, Worcester system boiler, underfloor heating on ground floor and radiators upstairs.

Always wise to do so.
 
I always turn the water off if I'm going away for more than a day or two because of what happened to me a few years ago :

I went away for work and left the water on. It was the summer and unusually hot weather - The sunlight shone in through my upstairs bathroom window on to part of the toilet cistern. The cistern then cracked below the waterline due to differential expansion. There was likely a weak point / flaw in the porcelain since manufacture. Water then leaked out and was made up by the stop cock. Ended up with half the house flooded - Luckily I must have a slightly unlevel house because the water only flowed to one side of the house (both upstairs and downstairs) ! And luckily it was clean water (and I don't have a water meter !). What a mess though - Half the house was wrecked by the time I got home. I think it must have been leaking for about a week by the time I got back because mould had already started to grow. It took me a good six months to get everything sorted out. I thought that it was a completely freak incident, but the Insurance Assessor told me that he had seen the same several times.....

My advice : Always turn the water off if your house is going to be unoccupied for more than a few days, and make sure that your home insurance is in order - I have no complaints about my insurance company assistance in getting everything sorted out and in paying for the restoration and replacement work.
 
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I am now getting into the habit of shutting off mains water when I am away for any prolonged period of time. It's also allowed me to test my infrequently used stop cock as suggested by some else on this forum. The last turn was very stiff and I can see that the mechanism is rusted. Should I spray some WD40 on this or 3-in-1 oil to make this easier?

One further question please: I have a large megaflo cylinder in my property. I was half expecting that when I turn off the mains water, I would still be getting hot water until my cylinder is depleted of its content but this didn't happen. Both hot and cold water stopped by turning off the stop cock. Is this expected?
 
Yes. If nothing goes into the cylinder, nothing can come out. Even with vented cylinders, as the inlet is at the bottom and the outlet is at the top, the cylinder stays full when water is turned off.

The stopcock may be fine. Turning on and off a few times often frees them up.
 
Should I spray some WD40 on this or 3-in-1 oil to make this easier
You shouldn't really use any mineral based lubricants on an potable water source as it can contaminate the water. Best way is for the tap to be stripped and lubricated. If it's old then just replace with a WRAS approved full bore lever tap.
 
You shouldn't really use any mineral based lubricants on an potable water source as it can contaminate the water. Best way is for the tap to be stripped and lubricated. If it's old then just replace with a WRAS approved full bore lever tap.

WD40 is great for releasing seized components, but for long term lubrication a light machine oil like 3-in-1 oil is the best thing to use. While I agree that mineral oil based lubricants should not be used internally on a potable water system, using a few drops on the spindle of a tap is fine. The pressure difference between the water system pressure and atmospheric pressure prevents any oil contamination of the water. Water can leak out past the spindle glands, oil can not leak in ! :) Basic physics.
 

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