swa problem

[gasman1987]

Isn't this ok because the shed is feed from the fuse board in the house of a 40amp mcb.Then to a separate rcd to prevent nuisance tripping in the house. then from there to the back of the house to a 45amp cooker switch which is next to the door and then carrys on to the end of the house

all the wire in the house is 10mm twin and earth and just before it go's outside there are two 10mm swa one go's to a brick built shed and the other to a wooden shed. Both have there own fuse boards

 

[sparkticus]

Isn't this ok because the shed is feed from the fuse board in the house of a 40amp mcb.Then to a separate rcd to prevent nuisance tripping in the house. then from there to the back of the house to a 45amp cooker switch which is next to the door and then carrys on to the end of the house

all the wire in the house is 10mm twin and earth and just before it go's outside there are two 10mm swa one go's to a brick built shed and the other to a wooden shed. Both have there own fuse boards

That sounds OK. cooker switch is a bit odd but not a problem.

With a TN-C-S system there are two considerations when exporting.

1) You are taking the supply outside of a (more or less) equipotential zone. The TN-C-S earth may be at a different potential to that of the external ground. So if you have something plugged in to your shed socket which is not double insulated (has an outer metal earthed chassis) then you may have a significant potential difference between it and the ground.

2) Despite it being very unlikely, if a TN-C-S neutral conductor is lost in the main supply to your house or another house in your street then anything connected to the TN-C-S earth may rise significantly in potential with respect to external ground. If both of your sheds have no extraneous metal to the structure then you are probably OK. But if you had an all metal shed or a significant metal frame to the shed then it would be appropriate to not export the TN-C-S earth and use a local TT system instead. (an earth rod just outside the shed)

TN-C-S systems get exported all the time but frankly I really do advice you to get an experienced pro in to make sure all is well.

 

[gasman1987]

yes, i am going to get someone in to check this cable.Also if reasonable i can afford it the house as i have no paperwork for the electrics and it is all brown and blue cables. lived in the house 4 years and i don't think they harmonized them to long before that.

also the swa is only about 400mm below the ground. Don't blame them due to it being 3ometers but things like that seem to be the tips i ice bergs

the cooker switch i think is to cut the power to the sheds


Thank you any way you have been the gratest of help

 

[sparkticus]

yes, i am going to get someone in to check this cable.Also if reasonable i can afford it the house as i have no paperwork for the electrics and it is all brown and blue cables. lived in the house 4 years and i don't think they harmonized them to long before that.

also the swa is only about 400mm below the ground. Don't blame them due to it being 3ometers but things like that seem to be the tips i ice bergs

the cooker switch i think is to cut the power to the sheds


Thank you any way you have been the gratest of help

You could get a registered electrician to do PIR (periodic inspection report) which would highlight any significant issue and provide you with an electrical report. But keep in mind that the certificate has two outcomes
- Satisfactory
-Unsatisfactory

Unless you are selling/renting the property or have serious concerns then the need to have paperwork is not that pressing I would say.

In general you can expect to pay between £125 - £250 for a PIR but make sure the company is registered and that they have appropriate qualifications/certifications to perform PIRs. The price range reflects regional, company and report limitations. (you set the limitations on a PIR - for example you may agree that they do not check on cables under floors etc)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

yes, i am going to get someone in to check this cable.Also if reasonable i can afford it the house as i have no paperwork for the electrics

And you still won't have - will you, not the legally required ones, because you just went ahead and installed all the outside stuff without applying for Building Regulations approval first, didn't you.

 

[gasman1987]

why do you need building aproval for electrical work. i did not install the cable. i am a gas fitter and that is all i stick to.

i have part p but still don't feel confedant to carry out electrical work myself so i will sub it out.
i work for a well known energy provider and know 100s of sparks but there is only 1 i would let in my house

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The problem is i damaged the cable with a shovel.

How did you manage to do that?

How deep is the cable buried?

why do you need building aproval for electrical work.

Oh FGS.

Because the law says that you do: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p

i did not install the cable.

That is very clearly and unambiguously not what you said:

I have layed a 10mm 3 core swa cable underground

i am a gas fitter and that is all i stick to.

So you aren't doing this work.

after this work is competed what checks should a sparky undertake.

And clearly an electrician isn't doing it either.

So who is?

And did they apply for Building Regulations approval?

i have part p

So why don't you know what the law says?

 

[gasman1987]

As i said i stick to my own trade GAS installation, i have part p and my 2330 level 2. I went to collage when i left school which was 6years. if you are not a practicing sparky yes, i would forget loads and i thought part p was covering the domestic side

I thought i would get a little knowledge as i temp the boilers up and wire the control panels on the heating systems as many sparks don't have a clue how to wire this side and to fault find these controls
also i run all the cables to help while the floors are up and to make the job more efficient

and no i did not lay the swa as it is approx only 400mm below ground with no gravel and id tape. There is a electrical cert for my house but it is dated 1999 and the cables are all blue and brown. so that is not up to date. i would have thought it was done proply due to the neat workmanship and correct installation but as i no from my trade that means nothing if your readings are incorrect

 

[viewer]

Ignoring the comments above; a couple of points for you to check:-
Does the 1999 cert refer to the external connections? It could be that someone added these afterwards. If so then the cert is probably fine for the house itself.
Do the external non-swa cables use blue/brown or black/red?

Blue/Brown is newer cable but (I think) was not used until 2004, so the 1999 cert cannot apply to circuits with these colours inside or outside.

 

[seasickstevie]

... i have no paperwork for the electrics and it is all brown and blue cables.

Brown & blue (harmonised) didn't start appearing 'till after 2003, so how come your certificate is dated 1999 ?

 

[JohnW2]

... i have no paperwork for the electrics and it is all brown and blue cables.

Brown & blue (harmonised) didn't start appearing 'till after 2003, so how come your certificate is dated 1999 ?

I think that was the OP's point ....

There is a electrical cert for my house but it is dated 1999 and the cables are all blue and brown. so that is not up to date.

Kind Regards, John.

 

[seasickstevie]

Got yer !

 

[gasman1987]

the swa cables are brown grey black with insulation tape brown blue yellow over the other colours