Switch for 240v Led strip lighting?

[cupotea]

I want to fit an LED strip lighting set high up on a wall in one of my rooms. Looking to hide all wiring in loft space above the room and control it using the rooms light switch on the wall. So trying to find out if the light switch (250V 10AX) is suitable to use to control a single spurred non switched socket for the LED strip's transformer to be plugged into it? The LED strip is 240V and comes with its own plug in transformer to 12V...
Thoughts?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, it's just a switch.

 

[cupotea]

So route the live wire of the spur through the wall switch correct?

 

[Doggit]

The transformer require a live and a neutral, but the existing light switch, only has a live, and a switched live, so where do you propose to get a neutral feed from, and where are you feeding the switched spurred non switched socket from. Are you ditching the existing light, or do you want an either or setup. You would be better off using a separate transformer unit, rather than a plug in type.

 

[winston1]

The LED strip is 240V and comes with its own plug in transformer to 12V...
Thoughts?

The LED strip then is 12 volt, not 240 then! Oh and you won't be using a transformer as LEDs require DC and transformers are AC devices. Guess you actually have a 12 volt DC power supply.

It is not good practice to put 13 amp sockets on the lighting circuit. Get a DC power supply that is not built on to the back of a plug.

===================================================

Winston1
See https://www.ledhut.co.uk/led-driver-transformers.html

Stop misleading everyone.
Mod
===================================================

 

[cupotea]

Ok the LED strip comes powered by a plug in power supply. The switch on the wall will be new (double instead of single switch at the moment so I can have the normal existing room lights and the new LEDs on the wall switch working independently) The spur would be from an existing socket already up in the loft. There is also the supply from up in the loft down to a shaver point nearby but thought the existing socket would be better suited?


This is the LED kit (if link works):
LAP LED Tape Cabinet Striplights Kit Cool White 12W

 

[Doggit]

So take a feed from the exiting socket to a 4 way junction box, divert the live down to the new double light switch, and then take the switched live to the new socket. And put a label on the socket advising of the setup.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So take a feed from the exiting socket to a 4 way junction box, divert the live down to the new double light switch, and then take the switched live to the new socket.

Take a feed from the existing socket to an FCU and then to the switch. Should not have light switches on 32A circuits.

And put a label on the socket advising of the setup.

And a notice somewhere appropriate advising that there are two circuits at the switch.

 

[cupotea]

Ok got it: So feed from existing socket in loft to 13A FCU to switch on wall in room to socket to supply LED strip. Label/notice to advise that the switch on wall has 2 circuits: comprising 1 circuit for the rooms main light and the other being a spur to the plug socket.
Should the FCU be switched or does it not matter?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Doesn't need to be.

 

[ianniann]

Are you still trying to bodge in a socket because that particular kit has a wallwart? You need one of these:
http://www.strictlyleds.co.uk/18-watt-led-driver-12v-transformer

No socket needed, just a live wire and a neutral wire. Use on a lighting circuit or direct from a fused spur, via any switch you want. Lighting circuit would be better since people expect light switches to be connected to the lighting circuit.

Then pick any strip you like, up to 18W. Or 15W with a margin of protection for continuous operation. Or buy a more powerful driver if you want to light up the whole house. The strip in your linked kit is pretty dim, double-check it will meet your needs.

 

[Doggit]

Ok got it: So feed from existing socket in loft to 13A FCU to switch on wall

No, BAS was right to correct me, as I forgot to point out that as light switches and lighting circuits are designed for 5A, you'd need to put in a 5A FCU to handle the change in wire etc, which is why both myself and ianian suggested using a transformer rather than a wallwart and 13A socket.