System boiler system - how does the system top up after loss of water?

[mjgreen81]

It should have water in the cistern ,doesn't need to be full, 3 or 4 inches deep when system is cold, can be higher. It's a feed and expansion cistern and keeps the system topped up.

So should I open the valve and the ball cock should take care of automatically topping it up?

I wonder why the valve is off...a bit worrying.

 

[terryplumb]

So should I open the valve and the ball cock should take care of automatically topping it up?

I wonder why the valve is off...a bit worrying.

Yes.

 

[mjgreen81]

Yes.

Thanks. I guess I should chuck in some inhibitor at the same time.

So I guess going back to my original query, if I lose water via a radiator removal etc, the header tank should refill automatically to compensate for this.

Is this correct?

 

[terryplumb]

Thanks. I guess I should chuck in some inhibitor at the same time.

So I guess going back to my original query, if I lose water via a radiator removal etc, the header tank should refill automatically to compensate for this.

Is this correct?

Yes. Maybe the float valve inside the cistern is a bit dodgy and doesn't fully close off ,so previously ,once cistern has filled to an appropriate level,the isolation valve was used ....maybe !!

 

[mjgreen81]

Yes. Maybe the float valve inside the cistern is a bit dodgy and doesn't fully close off ,so previously ,once cistern has filled to an appropriate level,the isolation valve was used ....maybe !!

Good point. There has definitely been a leak in the airing cupboard where the cylinder is at some point in the past so I will keep a close eye when turning the valve on.

So is the HW that resides in the cylinder pumped around the radiators and I don't have to worry about pressure etc, I just need to ensure that the cylinder is full?

 

[terryplumb]

Yes , same water runs around rads.

 

[mjgreen81]

Yes , same water runs around rads.

Brilliant, thanks so much for your help Terry. It is very much appreciated.

 

[cjcoffin]

<I'm looking at doing some decorating soon and plan to remove some radiators so I can paint behind them.>

Usually you don't need to take the rads off completely which means you don't lose a significant amount of water or the inhibitor which should have been added.

If you turn off the radiator valves tight at both ends and then slacken the nuts holding them to the radiator by 1/4 turn you can usually lift the rad off its brackets and lay it down flat on some kind of props or blocks then re-tighten the nuts while you paint behind it. Then reverse the process.

 

[mjgreen81]

<I'm looking at doing some decorating soon and plan to remove some radiators so I can paint behind them.>

Usually you don't need to take the rads off completely which means you don't lose a significant amount of water or the inhibitor which should have been added.

If you turn off the radiator valves tight at both ends and then slacken the nuts holding them to the radiator by 1/4 turn you can usually lift the rad off its brackets and lay it down flat on some kind of props or blocks then re-tighten the nuts while you paint behind it. Then reverse the process.

Thanks for this, I have never tried that before and will give it a try.