Texacom Bell Box & Panel Wiring - Alternative config nee

Before you power up have a good look at all your connections, make sure they are tight and no conductor showing. Especially on the mains side.
Power the panel mains first and then add the battery and enter the codes to silence and put into engineers. Then mains the PSU followed by the battery.

Close all lids and take out of engineers, you should have time and date showing. No tampers.
If you have its trace back time.
Once they are all clear program the system and do a walk test.
From the sound of it you might need a hand if your using all the SCB`s or you could seriously cheese off the neighbours.
Then take a load test of the panel and PSU. In both standby and alarm. This will see if you have overloaded anything, also give you standby times with the correct equation. (Although you probably dont want/need the standby times).

Use 3amp fuses in the spur (s) feeding the panel/psu.
Label the cables for future reference, it is very handy.

Also good practice to check and record the transformer output voltages, battery charging rates and DC outputs. Again for future reference. There are a few more checks we do but for your situation those should be fine..............oops an important one with your meter set to AC put the test probes on the mains earth and DC + and see what is recorded. Ideally the reading should be 1.2VAC or less.
 
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Before you power up have a good look at all your connections, make sure they are tight and no conductor showing. Especially on the mains side.
Power the panel mains first and then add the battery and enter the codes to silence and put into engineers. Then mains the PSU followed by the battery.

Close all lids and take out of engineers, you should have time and date showing. No tampers.
If you have its trace back time.
Once they are all clear program the system and do a walk test.
From the sound of it you might need a hand if your using all the SCB`s or you could seriously cheese off the neighbours.
Then take a load test of the panel and PSU. In both standby and alarm. This will see if you have overloaded anything, also give you standby times with the correct equation. (Although you probably dont want/need the standby times).

Use 3amp fuses in the spur (s) feeding the panel/psu.
Label the cables for future reference, it is very handy.

Also good practice to check and record the transformer output voltages, battery charging rates and DC outputs. Again for future reference. There are a few more checks we do but for your situation those should be fine..............oops an important one with your meter set to AC put the test probes on the mains earth and DC + and see what is recorded. Ideally the reading should be 1.2VAC or less.

Sorry, in my last but one post I said there were TWO pairs of Tamp terminals on the Panel, in fact there is only ONE pair, which next to the Aux + - terminals. In view of this am I right in assuming that ALL the bell box series tamp connections plus the PSU lid tamp will start and end here.

All your valuable points above are noted and appreciated. Labels YES definitely - I´ve written in biro on white insulation tape then wrapped it to each cable as it reached the panel.

It looks as though the manual P17 could be incorrect about connecting the battery first - unless it does not matter ?

It will take me a few days to get hold of the relay before I finally commission.

I have decided initially just to use one of the three (PSU fed) 1Es in sounder mode (should this be SCB or could it be SAB). The other two will be silent but with strobes and comfort leds operating.

I presume this will sound when I do the "Strobe test" because the relay solenoid is powered from the strobe connection.

I can´t remember, was there reason why the "B" terminal for sounder connection could not be used?

I intend to programme the control to cancel strobe with the bell.

Thanks agian
 
Ahh if it says batt first the go battery first on the panel. Actually your right without looking I was thinking of another panel, had forgotten :oops:


Use SAB if no relays

No it wont

Because you were not going to use them as sounders

Fair enough, that is the norm now.

Soz just woke up, was dozing :D
 
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Ahh if it says batt first the go battery first on the panel. Actually your right without looking I was thinking of another panel, had forgotten :oops:


Use SAB if no relays

No it wont

Because you were not going to use them as sounders

Fair enough, that is the norm now.

Soz just woke up, was dozing :D

Hi Alarm

Sorry if I woke you up!!

Without the relay:-
I don´t know what current the main panel can deliver from the "B" -ve Bell terminal and the "S" -ve Strobe terminal and whether the total of 5 boxes would be excessive because I don´t know the load the box calls for to operate these functions. I like your idea of the relay because it looks as though it will reduce the load down to only that needed to operate the solenoid coil.
So I think I will hang on till I pick one up.

Thanks again
 
Before you power up have a good look at all your connections, make sure they are tight and no conductor showing. Especially on the mains side.
Power the panel mains first and then add the battery and enter the codes to silence and put into engineers. Then mains the PSU followed by the battery.

Close all lids and take out of engineers, you should have time and date showing. No tampers.
If you have its trace back time.
Once they are all clear program the system and do a walk test.
From the sound of it you might need a hand if your using all the SCB`s or you could seriously cheese off the neighbours.
Then take a load test of the panel and PSU. In both standby and alarm. This will see if you have overloaded anything, also give you standby times with the correct equation. (Although you probably dont want/need the standby times).

Use 3amp fuses in the spur (s) feeding the panel/psu.
Label the cables for future reference, it is very handy.

Also good practice to check and record the transformer output voltages, battery charging rates and DC outputs. Again for future reference. There are a few more checks we do but for your situation those should be fine..............oops an important one with your meter set to AC put the test probes on the mains earth and DC + and see what is recorded. Ideally the reading should be 1.2VAC or less.

Hi Alarm

I´ve powered up and all seemed to be going fine, but after doing the setting up of programs. When I exited the programming mode by pressing "reset" the alarm sounded and I was left with a "T" tamper fault on the alarm keypad display and the alarm sounded even though I set the soak test for 14 days.

The walk test was OK and the AC voltage test was 0.93VAC.

I have not yet altered the Factory set USER and ENGINEER CODEs.

Before powering up I checked the total global tamper resistance and it was only 9.5 Ohms, well within the max closed resistance of 22k in the "Specification".

I´ve been back into the panel and disconnected one end of the Global Tamp and checked the resistance reading across the full loop, which on the 20k meter range is now moving up and down roughly every 5 to 7 second between 5.2 and 0.81, after 3 hours has now dropped to 2.88 and 0.71 wierd :confused:
All comfort leds work on all bell boxes and the 2 boxes (one SAB and one SCB) wired to the main panel have one flash of the strobe every 5 seconds.

Is it coincidence or are these two 5 second events linked ??

I have used the supplied EOL resistors as shown and on 03 Miscillaneous Selection 3 turned option 2 EOL "Tamp Short", and 3 and EOL"tamp Open" to "ON", so that the panel could monitor them. also put the 10k resistor as recommended across my unused zone 8.

In Full Set Suite - option 50 - I did deselect zone 8, perhaps this was wrong?

In "00" I also selected option 1 "Cancel Strobe with bell"

To cancel the sounders I entered the user 4321 code and the display now says "Unset Alarms ********" with the "T" at the end flashing, and the small red tamper light on continuously.
"Mains" light is ON and "Unset" light is OFF.

Q How do I get back into Programming mode from here please to check the programming. I´m not sure what to do on the keypad ?

Can you help please


:confused:
 
Yeah, take everything out and start again.

Harsh ??? Sorry but playing with this stuff is one thing understanding it is another.
A few here and I mean a very select few could wire all you have up and have no issues. But your not in the same league, and no disrespect is intended.

A tamper circuit not stable means there is a connectivity issue.
Flashing strobes when the system is not activated is a wiring issue.

Why change the default settings, even experienced "engineers" leave the settings alone, hate to mention these but ADT have their panels set so a fool can set them up blindfolded. More than that some companies have the panels locked to a default, so no errors can be made and then the office still uses UDL to double check.

You are playing with too much as I suspected.
All assistance was and will be provided, but you have to go back and start from a basic system, there is a fault there and you have to eliminate it.
 
Yeah, take everything out and start again.

Harsh ??? Sorry but playing with this stuff is one thing understanding it is another.
A few here and I mean a very select few could wire all you have up and have no issues. But your not in the same league, and no disrespect is intended.

A tamper circuit not stable means there is a connectivity issue.
Flashing strobes when the system is not activated is a wiring issue.

Why change the default settings, even experienced "engineers" leave the settings alone, hate to mention these but ADT have their panels set so a fool can set them up blindfolded. More than that some companies have the panels locked to a default, so no errors can be made and then the office still uses UDL to double check.

You are playing with too much as I suspected.
All assistance was and will be provided, but you have to go back and start from a basic system, there is a fault there and you have to eliminate it.

Hi Alarm

Don´t worry about the "Harsh ???", I accept it.
I know Alarms can be much more complex than the 16Cam CCTV with 400mtrs RG59 and Avermedia DVR that I have been installing while trunking for the alarm sys. It all commissioned without a hitch thankfully.
(Just saying so you have some confidence in me to carry through what is now needed.)

The 7 sensors are set on "chime" and all seem to be behaving correctly on the internal sounders.

Thanks for your kindness, positive help and advice, much appreciated.

I also set the Bell box sounders to 1 minute before cut off in the "bedding in" phase - in case there were any unforseen issues that triggered an unstoppable alarm.

(The main control panel cover is already removed. Would it help if I list the colour of connections at the sounder and the main panel?)

Thanks


PS. (while scratching my head) Just taken a few readings while I had time:-

*Terminal voltage at main panel battery 14.2v
*Terminal voltage at PSU battery 13.9v
*Measurement between Neg on both 0v and 0 ohms
*measurement across tamp switch global nylon terminal block (page 14)
taken on 20k meter range, taking each box individually.
*Tamp terminals from Extra PSU box tamp switch 0 ohms
*Box1 0.06 varying to 0.09 resistance and 0.005v on 2Vdc meter range
*Box2 0.29 " " 0.60 " " 0.015v " " " "
*Box3 0.15 " " 1.51 " " 0.008v varying to 0.078
*Box4 0.09 " " 1.41 " " 0.005v " 0.068
*Box5 0.01 " " 3.78 " " 0.009v " 0.132

Total reading accross the 6 series circuits of the tamper connector
0.79 varying to 5.56 resistance and 0.036v varying to 0.187

Q. So, from where the message the keypad is showing now (shown in my last post), can you tell me how best to move forward please ?
 

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