Texecom Premier instalation questions

[Alarm]

No it will overload. You can check the loading now and see how close it is to the max. Then work out if the extra can be fitted, but I would not load to near max anyway.

Wintex is superb, why write your own ?


Forgot to say a lot of compliant panels now default to fob/tag unsetting for DD and EN regs.
Dont worry we forget sometimes

 

[Bucks]

No it will overload. You can check the loading now and see how close it is to the max. Then work out if the extra can be fitted, but I would not load to near max anyway.

Wintex is superb, why write your own ?


Forgot to say a lot of compliant panels now default to fob/tag unsetting for DD and EN regs.
Dont worry we forget sometimes

Is there another way that I can wire the internal sounder then?

Sorry not getting you on your other two comments

 

[Alarm]

Yes, forget the loose resistors and use the jumpers.
Then use 2 cores as shown in the diagram.

 

[Bucks]

Yes, forget the loose resistors and use the jumpers.
Then use 2 cores as shown in the diagram.

Sorry Alarm not getting yours answers.

What I am wanting to know is how can I wire an internal sounder to the Premier 48? I was wandering if I could wire it to the speaker connections.

I already have two bell boxes wired to the external sounder connections.

 

[Alarm]

Is there another sounder attached?
If so probably, take a MA reading to be sure.

The other reply is to a previous question.

 

[Bucks]

There are 2 sounders attached that are in the two bell boxes.

Not sure how to take the meter readings.

Wandering now whether just to not bother with the internal sounder, after all there are two external sounders.

 

[Alarm]

When you say "sounders" in bell boxes what do you mean?

A propper extrenal sounder or a seperate item stuffed inside a dummy box?

 

[Bucks]

A proper external sounder.

Edit: Sorry I keep saying Bell Box when i think it should be Sounder.

 

[Bucks]

Just checked the manual for the bell box, they are IntelliSense AG6 it says that the Load current is 260ma max for sounder & strobe, there are two of them, so thats 520ma.
I bought these sounders before I bought the Premier 48

 

[Alarm]

Thats better!

Bell total output on P24 is 900ma ( Fuse 2)

AG6 loading
Total 260ma x 3 = 780ma

So in theroy you can fit the 3 of them, if you meant them as sounders.
Then you could fit a SPEAKER on the speaker outoup, but remember its commoned to the bell positive. So that would be its max I would think.

Or is its two externals and one inside speaker then your fine again.

 

[Bucks]

Thats better!

Bell total output on P24 is 900ma ( Fuse 2)

AG6 loading
Total 260ma x 3 = 780ma

So in theroy you can fit the 3 of them, if you meant them as sounders.
Then you could fit a SPEAKER on the speaker outoup, but remember its commoned to the bell positive. So that would be its max I would think.

Or is its two externals and one inside speaker then your fine again.

Thanks for all your help Alarm, its much appreciated,

2 x AG6 @260 = 520ma
1 x SBII Sound Bomb @ 190ma
Total 710ma, so does that mean I am fine wiring all 3 to the external sounder conections, by the way its a premier 48 not 24.

Also I have a 7ah battery would I be better of with the 17ah battery with 2 souders, 1 Sound Bomb, 20 zones, 3 keypads, ComIP, Speech & Text Dialer.

 

[Alarm]

LOL, I love those little babies. Make sure its at head height ( or average).
Yes it should be fine to all run off the external sounder connections.

As for the standby battery you need it to run for 12 hours in a power cut in an ideal world. To work this out you need the MA consumption. In alarm is how we work it, as it is the max draw, although it will cut out at 15 mins.

On the PCB above zone 4/5 is a pair of pads put your meter on VDC and measure the reading then multiply by 10 (In Alarm). That is the MA draw in standby.

If your drawing 800a then a 7 amp will not last 12 hrs. A 17 ah would last about 18 give or take. However your not fitting to standards so it is your choice. Personally I would use the 17ah, but thats because I would do the best needed.

Sorry, assumed it was a P24.

 

[Bucks]

LOL, I love those little babies. Make sure its at head height ( or average).
Yes it should be fine to all run off the external sounder connections.

If its the SBII Sound Bomb your referring to, its in the loft my theory being if someone managed to disable the external sounders the neighbours should still hear the Sound Bomb in the loft.

 

[Bucks]

As for the standby battery you need it to run for 12 hours in a power cut in an ideal world. To work this out you need the MA consumption. In alarm is how we work it, as it is the max draw, although it will cut out at 15 mins.

On the PCB above zone 4/5 is a pair of pads put your meter on VDC and measure the reading then multiply by 10 (In Alarm). That is the MA draw in standby.

If your drawing 800a then a 7 amp will not last 12 hrs. A 17 ah would last about 18 give or take.

Busy putting blinds up at the moment, so will pop into the loft tomorrow with the multimeter, do I check it when the alarm is going off?

However your not fitting to standards so it is your choice. Personally I would use the 17ah, but thats because I would do the best needed.

I know I'm not qualified for the instalation to say meet standards, but I as with everything I do would rather do overkill than skimp (if a jobs worth doing its worth doing propperly) sounds like your of the same mind.

 

[Alarm]

Ideally yes, as in with alarm sounding.
Easiest way for you is to , if you have not programme a pir as panic alarm.
Then clear the room. Override the tampers on the panel and then close the tampers.
Now put the alarm into day mode.
Put probes onto test pads and get someone to walk into the room, when it all goes off record the steady reading.
Put in user code.

Job done back into engineers, reprogramme the pir.

17ah would be better, and the panel can cope with it.