lol - I'm not going to lie by saying it looks ok
I'll have a look at that black box....from my recollection it was a sealed box...would I have to open it up to adjust the speed? yes i guess.
The Infamous Potterton Profile 50e
- Thread starter Dannyg78
- Start date
lol - I'm not going to lie by saying it looks ok
I'll have a look at that black box....from my recollection it was a sealed box...would I have to open it up to adjust the speed? yes i guess.Sponsored Links
it will normally be on the square part on the pump, which also houses the electrical connections. You do not normally have to open the cover the change the speed. With a torch and a mirror you will probably find a flat round plastic knob recessed into the case that you can turn with your fingers.
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Ok checked this and even took the black box apart and found no speed switch anywhere on the pump
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I took the centre screw out of the pump but there was no where to put my screwdriver...just a black disc type stopper which stops me from putting anything in it!!??
Ok checked this and even took the black box apart and found no speed switch anywhere on the pump
well I am surprisedbut measure it so you can vefify if it is the same size as a standard Grundfoss pump (they are sold everywhere). You will probably need a new pair of pump isolating valves as the old ones are likely to be seized or to leak when you start to turn them. Gate valves are the better sort.
you can buy cheaper pumps than Grundfoss but some of them are not as good.
Ok checked this and even took the black box apart and found no speed switch anywhere on the pump
but measure it so you can vefify if it is the same size as a standard Grundfoss pump (they are sold everywhere). You will probably need a new pair of pump isolating valves as the old ones are likely to be seized or to leak when you start to turn them. Gate valves are the better sort.
you can buy cheaper pumps than Grundfoss but some of them are not as good.
Is this something I can do myself John?
yes, if you can do DIY plumbing. Check if the pipes are 22mm so you can get pump valves to suit, you had best get a pipeslice or similar in case you need to cut the pipes. The pump valves will have a compression fitting onto the pipes, after a trial fit, wind PTFE tape round the olives and the adjacent pipe, it really does prevent leaks and gives a better seal than jointing pastes. You also use PTFE on any screwed connections. the valves have a nut that pulls a flat connection onto the stubs from the pump (sealing washers provided with pump)
you can trial fit the pump valves to your new pump on the kitchen table and you will see how it goes together. You will also need two pairs of large stilsons or similar as the brass nuts on the pump valves are very large.
You have to drain the system, unless the old pump valves are sound and do not need to be replaced.
If your old system is still working and circulating, it is always worth adding Sentinel X400 and running the system for up to 4 weeks before a planned drain down. If you have reason to suspect much black sediment is present, spend an extra £100 and fit a Magnaclean while you are fitting the pump. I guarantee you will be amazed and delighted to see how much black sludge it captures over the next few months of use.
It is best to do any work on the boiler and CH system in warm weather when you can afford to have it drained and the boiler tuned off until you have finished, you might not get it finished in a single day.
p.s. X400 is a cleaning chemical (non-acidic) which loosens sludge so that it can be washed around by the water, and drained out. Inhibitors do not loosen sludge.
you can trial fit the pump valves to your new pump on the kitchen table and you will see how it goes together. You will also need two pairs of large stilsons or similar as the brass nuts on the pump valves are very large.
You have to drain the system, unless the old pump valves are sound and do not need to be replaced.
If your old system is still working and circulating, it is always worth adding Sentinel X400 and running the system for up to 4 weeks before a planned drain down. If you have reason to suspect much black sediment is present, spend an extra £100 and fit a Magnaclean while you are fitting the pump. I guarantee you will be amazed and delighted to see how much black sludge it captures over the next few months of use.
It is best to do any work on the boiler and CH system in warm weather when you can afford to have it drained and the boiler tuned off until you have finished, you might not get it finished in a single day.
p.s. X400 is a cleaning chemical (non-acidic) which loosens sludge so that it can be washed around by the water, and drained out. Inhibitors do not loosen sludge.
your pipework looks vile but the pipe appears to be the primary return (or feed) to the cylinder coil. I am not certain though as there seems to be some cut-off stubs as well, I hope the cylinder has not been converted from indirect to direct. I would not undo any connections to the cylinder as you may start a leak.
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I am a householder not a pro
thanks again for your time John.
I hear what your saying about touching the boiler, it doesn't look like it would be able to handle me unscrewing ceased on connections.
When fitting the pump i suppose the electrics are straight forward!?
I hear what your saying about touching the boiler, it doesn't look like it would be able to handle me unscrewing ceased on connections.
When fitting the pump i suppose the electrics are straight forward!?
sorry for going on but is it strange for the top of the cylinder being hot and the bottom cold? I take it the top of the cylinder is for the hot water.
I don't think there is an issue with the pump though, I'm thinking it's more to do with the boiler communicating with /powering the pump.
I don't think there is an issue with the pump though, I'm thinking it's more to do with the boiler communicating with /powering the pump.
it is normal. Like hot air rises, so does hot water within the cylinder.
if you insulate the pipes and cylinder you will waste less heat, energy and money.
If you think there is something wrong with the boiler's control of the pump, you can turn the boiler off and connect the pump with a flex and plug to a socket. If it still doesn't work it is not the controls. All the controls do is switch the power to the pump on and off.
Have you done anything to clean sludge and sediment out of the system yet? Rinsing with plain water does not count.
I haven't been there and looked at it, but the two people who have said...
Whether it is a worn-out pump, or sediment, or both, I can't tell. We already know your pump is very old. We also know that your system is very old and has not been cleaned, so we can be confident it holds a good load of sludge and sediment. Corrosion inhibitor will not loosen old sludge.
If you want to start with the cheapest:
1) £15 on a litre of X400
2) rather more on a new pump and valves
3) another £100 on a Magnaclean
and if all that fails, several hundred on a powerflush
No point in going for the most expensive option until you have done the others, or in skipping the earlier steps.
It seems to be generally accepted that you have problem with poor water circulation. The two specialists had different views on the cause of this poor circulation. They may both be right.
Whether it is a worn-out pump, or sediment, or both, I can't tell. We already know your pump is very old. We also know that your system is very old and has not been cleaned, so we can be confident it holds a good load of sludge and sediment. Corrosion inhibitor will not loosen old sludge.
If you want to start with the cheapest:
1) £15 on a litre of X400
2) rather more on a new pump and valves
3) another £100 on a Magnaclean
and if all that fails, several hundred on a powerflush
No point in going for the most expensive option until you have done the others, or in skipping the earlier steps.
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