No I think they both reside in woody land.
Thermal breaks for RSJ's
- Thread starter RichD1
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I do approve.Jeepers, steel beams with plate welded beneath is standard stuff. Has Swwils not seen one? Woody (he who thinks raw steel belongs in scrapyards) will be chuffed when he sees our latest painted Hammerite black fella, we're installing tomorrow. We'll try and introduce insulation where the jambs will allow, using foam fix etc.
IIRC, a few years ago you have been throwing any old bit of rusty angle iron in.
All I need to do now is get FMT to take more care on his drawings and my work here is done.
As usual you dodge the question when it gets a bit tricky and kick in with the BS.
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Quelle surprise, still waiting for a solution ......
Ours composite steel beam landed above side wind posts, hence the hefty steel plate welded beneath the SHS...
I weighed up men V's machine. It cost £232 in machinery (x2 Genies and a micro digger delivered) and we had it in by 9:15 am. I'd have needed scaffold and all manner of blokes wrestling that beast. 200kg's is no fun when its that long and that shape. At least with a U Beam you can grapple with it. I could have got away with one genie, but didn't fancy it.
My plan worked to a tee.
Thermal bridging of the steel frame was something I really wanted to minimise. Here is how I did it in the end. I've just updated this post:
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Fitting large sliding patio doors to a steel frame
Hello, What's the best way of fitting a triple track sliding door to a steel sway frame? I want to minimise thermal bridging. I'm building my own extension and have Building Control approved plans including those from the Structural Engineer. I currently have this: Designed this: and...
www.diynot.com
FMT couldn't care less, designers and SE's will continue using the standard beam with a plate and the minimal issue of cold bridging will continual to be just that.
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You can't thermally break an RSJ
Mount it higher and put marmox blocks between the head of the door and the steel. Pre-drill and fire the door fixings through the support blocks in the marmox if you're really keen
If you don't have the luxury of lifting the steel up (and remember Marmox blocks can be sawn down) you can look to separate the door head from the steel horizontally by bolting/Hilti gunning a strip of ply to the flange and then fixing the door to the ply. The wider you can make the ply (separate the rsj and the door horizontally) the better
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