Think there's some thing missing, fluorescent lamp 'A' level.

I recall that the resistive lead was use between distributor and spark plugs to add some filtering to reduce the radio interference ciase by the spark ignition.

I also recall some cars had a resistor fitted in series with the ignition coil primary. This was shorted out when starting the engine to provide fatter sparks in the cold cylinders

You could buy resistive plug caps or resistive plug leads and inline resistors for the king lead. Common problems were when both were used on the same vehicle, it reduced the spark intensity. The resistive leads used nylon (?) threads, coated in carbon which after a few years would deteriorate, spark would become poor and they would need to be replaced.

I never quite understood quite how adding the resistors helped, by reducing RF interference. You could also buy, at great expense, screened ignition leads so the screen could be grounded. I fitted a set of those, in my attempts to reduce the interference to my transceiver many years ago.
 
Sponsored Links
The lamp would never strike in the first place.
 
LED.jpg
Now this would work, but no longer a fluorescent tube.
 
Sponsored Links
Have a google for the Mazda Netaline fluorescent fitting from the 1960s.

This was a slimline fitting that didn't use a ballast (no space) instead it used a length of resistance wire as a current limiting device. Plenty of videos around on YouTube
 
Have a google for the Mazda Netaline fluorescent fitting from the 1960s.

This was a slimline fitting that didn't use a ballast (no space) instead it used a length of resistance wire as a current limiting device. Plenty of videos around on YouTube

Was that the one which fixed in place of a ceiling rose and hung down balancing on a cantilevered arm?
 
Apparently a voltage spike is not required if there is an earthed metal strip running along the tube to propagate the glow.

Many years since I have seen the earth strip on a tube.

A trick with a reluctant to strike ordinary fitting when first installed, was to wet your fingers and with the other hand on the metal of the fitting, to run your wet fingers along the tube. Once struck the first time, they would be fine subsequently - I guess the first strike ionised the mercury in the tube(?)
 
Apparently a voltage spike is not required if there is an earthed metal strip running along the tube to propagate the glow.
The earth strip is to help in cold conditions. They still required a starter and inductive ballast.
 
Reminds me of valve radios which used a three core cable to the mains plugs, Live and Neutral were flexible copper and the third was a resistive wire connected to Live in the plug.

To save me typing more details can be found HERE
Yep and I remember people replacing the cable 'because it gets warm'...
 
The units I refer to looked something like this:
upload_2020-4-27_13-30-32.png

The metal arm was maybe 1/2" square and the box in the middle maybe 3 to 4" square and just thick enough to take the starter and connecter. As has been pointed out to me by my sister our original kitchen fluo was the same design but mounted on a bayonet plug and it was never square with the kitchen or level.
 
The ballast is used to strike the arc when the rapidly collapsing magnetic field is created by the opening of the starter
The earth strip is to help in cold conditions. They still required a starter and inductive ballast.
Whilst that is the traditional teaching, as has been said, fluorescent tubes with only resistive current limiting did (and presumably still would) work.

Kind Regards, John
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top