Tile over junction box

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No idea to be honest, all I know is there's a single box which was where the boiler use to be, which I'm guessing will need to stay so we'd have one which is fine

then from there, there's two more double boxes which go up the wall (both sides) and into the extension for power and ceiling lights.

We basically don't want anything on that bit of wall except for tiles and an extractor fan (socket near top of wall already)
 
This
 

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That's busy!

It might be better to rationalise and rip out stuff no longer needed, at the same time re-wiring or re-routing other stuff.
 
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It looks like you have 7 cables going up, two going down and 3 across.

That's a lot of cables, unless there is more than one circuit involved.

I suspect the original wiring has been butchered beyond recognition.

The cable on the left going down looks like flex (possibly to boiler?), hard wired direct to the circuit.

The other one going down looks like it goes to an appliance socket.

Complete pig's ear that needs thoroughly revising.

In the revision, you may as well plan for a socket or two above that 'top.
 
You already have cables that are not in the safe zones. You need an electrician, not more junction boxes!
 
On the left

Two flat cables go to boiler to the left from what I gather, the one going down goes to the programmer

Middlw two going up, goes to a single socket where the kitchen hood went.

On the right, those cables go up, through the "outside" of the house (now single rear extension) and thats lights and power cables.

All this was hidden under dot n dab plasterboard with a thin wooden cover over the junction boxes.

Good fun eh
 
The left hand box looks like it's a CH wiring centre. Is the CH fed by a 3A FCU? If not, that box in the centre would be ideal. The FCU on one side and the prog on the other, whichever position suited.

Can't differentiate between cable sizes on the RHS - are they different? Is there a thinner lighting cable?
 
Yeah to the left of by the boiler is a 3a switch for the boiler.

On the messy wall, there is a cable which goes right (stuck on by dot n dab which goes into a double junction box but that cable does nothing not even terminated either end so that can go straight away.

The cable which goes down does indeed go to a socket behimd some drawers and thats where the hob electrical ignition was.

The three cables going up look the same size but pretty sure one must be for lights.

In the extension there is 2 double socjets one side of the room.

The other side has a light switch, then a double socket then another switch for outside light
 
Later on this tear or next, were getting a new worcester boiler which has a wireless programmer/app so all that I imagine will be useless again :D
 
Once all that has been tidied up, defunct cables removed, dogleg ones rerouted, joints removed etc, and a view taken on whether you could have anything on that wall (switches for things, sockets, etc) you'll probably find that all you're left with are a few vertical runs, which an electrician could put into steel conduit, and then all the concerns about zones for concealed cables go away.
 
Later on this tear or next, were getting a new worcester boiler which has a wireless programmer/app
Think long and hard about whether you really need that wireless functionality. If you don't and you're planning it because it's fun, etc, then I urge you to reconsider.
 
Actually just looked ita not wireless as such, but looks like the stat we have, it'll replace that but has built in programmer.

So no need for a seperate stat and programmer, so looks like its just the one box does all. Wave link its called
 

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