Tile saw - large format tiles.

[johnny2007]

Hmmm... What I described as 'slivers' I anticipate needing to cut (shave) off a tile would all be thinner than 5mm - perhaps down to 1-2 mm.

I think you need to watch tiling videos or speak to a professional.
In a tiled bathroom there's no way to need 1-2 mm shaving.
Also there should not be any cuts exposed, unless you are staggering the tiles like brickwork and adding a vertical feature like mosaic.
I explain: in corners you'll overlap the tiles, so the cut edge is behind the tiles from the adjacent wall.
Around door you can go as crazy as you want, architrave will cover any cuts.
Around windows recess you'll use a trim, again covering the cut, even if chipped (easily done with wet cutter).
Ceiling line can be easily covered by coving, looks better and gives you 90mm to play with.
Floor tiles edges will be covered by wall tiles.
I don't see the need for the 2mm shaving.
Even if you end up long (and you shouldn't if you've planned properly), you could use smaller spacers to work that out, although I never needed to do that.
Planning the layout is key.

 

[mrrusty]

When I've cut 600 x 600 I've used my tiny little £29.95 plasplugs wet cutter let in to a piece of chipboard to make a large table to support the large tile. You don't need a fancy tile cutter if you're only doing one bathroom. It has a tiny 100mm wheel, and with a guide line on the tile it's dead easy to just guide the tile over the wheel straight down the line. Not that quick, but who cares if you're only DIYing one bathroom.

 

[StephenStephen]

As an amateur who really doesn't enjoy orhave confidence with tiling, I have produced a lot of shoddy saw cuts on large tiles.

...and a lot of clean accurate score and snaps.

My experience is that score and snap is more nerve wracking, but produces a better finish...

 

[A.Steve]

In a tiled bathroom there's no way to need 1-2 mm shaving.

With all due respect, I disagree.

Scenario 1: This is not hypothetical for my job. The back of my shower measures very close (but under) 900mm... for every tile - from shower tray to ceiling. I specifically chose 900mm tiles because I want this back of my shower to have no vertical grout lines. My tiles are big enough... but they may need to be shortened by 2-3 mm in order to fit.

Scenario 2: Hypothetically, an experienced tiler would probably avoid this scenario - but I doubt I will. If I cut too small, my tile is wasted. These tiles are expensive... so I will be inclined to be cautious and cut as large as the tolerance on the target size permits. I expect to make mistakes and cut some tiles slightly too large. I don't want these cases to result in waste.

I accept that these constraints make matters more complicated... but these are the reasons I expect to need to reduce the size of my tiles by a very small amount.

I fully appreciate the importance of planning layouts. For various reasons, I'm pretty good at that sort of thing. Where I lack experience and consider myself 'average at best' is when it comes to physical dexterity and experience using specific tools. With much care, I can usually achieve what's required... but my errors are more likely to relate to dexterity than to failure to plan ahead.

As an amateur who really doesn't enjoy or have confidence with tiling, I have produced a lot of shoddy saw cuts on large tiles.

...and a lot of clean accurate score and snaps.

My experience is that score and snap is more nerve wracking, but produces a better finish...

Hi Stephen.... I appreciate your input. Given that I still think I need to wet-saw cut to get my results... can you offer advice on where you went wrong with saw cuts on large tiles? Cutting large tiles on a large industrial tile saw looks a breeze... but the large industrial saws don't seem a viable approach for an amateur like me needing several weeks to find the time to complete a job a pro would do in a day. Did you fail with a small fixed bottom-up wet tile saw (the £50-style ones) or with a wet bridge saw - or with something else?

Did you get bad results because affordable bridge-wet-saws are poor quality... or because you tried to use a small cheap fixed table-saw-like-design wet saw... and it didn't work out very well? Were your poor results with a wet or dry cut saw?

 

[A.Steve]

I got decent cuts from angle grinder and tile blade , clamp straight edge timber to guide and lay on sacrificial timber for support .

If I were to try and do this using an angle grinder, this is how I would go about it.

A completely different idea: Can a track saw (intended for carpentry) be used to cut porcelain tiles... if fitted with a blade suited to porcelain?

I own this track saw and I found this "Yellow turbo" diamond blade which appears suitably sized... The blade claims to be suited to cutting porcelain.

How silly is this idea? Even with the blade costing £32.52 - this is much cheaper than buying a new saw. I hadn't previously considered this option as I assumed that I'd need the blade to be wet... and I wouldn't want water near my track/plunge saw as I'm sure it was only ever intended to be used dry. Should I be apprehensive about repurposing my track/plunge saw to cut porcelain?

 

[johnny2007]

Scenario 1: This is not hypothetical for my job. The back of my shower measures very close (but under) 900mm... for every tile - from shower tray to ceiling. I specifically chose 900mm tiles because I want this back of my shower to have no vertical grout lines. My tiles are big enough... but they may need to be shortened by 2-3 mm in order to fit.

In this case it's even easier and perfect cuts are not required because you can hide the cuts behind the tiles on the other wall.
You will have at least 10mm to play with, so don't need to go too long.

Scenario 2: Hypothetically, an experienced tiler would probably avoid this scenario - but I doubt I will. If I cut too small, my tile is wasted. These tiles are expensive... so I will be inclined to be cautious and cut as large as the tolerance on the target size permits. I expect to make mistakes and cut some tiles slightly too large. I don't want these cases to result in waste.

I've given you advice and you can take or leave it.
If you are not confident in cutting tiles so you have to go long on every single one, then shave 1-2mm off, you'll end up with chewed edges anyway.
2 options here: hire an industrial cutter or plan properly so the cuts are not visible.
As someone mentioned, score and snap gives a much cleaner cut than any rotating blade.

 

[opps]

If I were to try and do this using an angle grinder, this is how I would go about it.

A completely different idea: Can a track saw (intended for carpentry) be used to cut porcelain tiles... if fitted with a blade suited to porcelain?

I own this track saw and I found this "Yellow turbo" diamond blade which appears suitably sized... The blade claims to be suited to cutting porcelain.

How silly is this idea? Even with the blade costing £32.52 - this is much cheaper than buying a new saw. I hadn't previously considered this option as I assumed that I'd need the blade to be wet... and I wouldn't want water near my track/plunge saw as I'm sure it was only ever intended to be used dry. Should I be apprehensive about repurposing my track/plunge saw to cut porcelain?

I have a Festool tile saw that runs on my Festool guide rails.

I purchased it second hand on eBay for a job that was cancelled, and so haven't used it yet.

Even if you could find a blade that fits your saw properly (the one in your link seems to be idea though) , I suspect that the RPM might be too low. My festool tile saw has a top rpm of 11,000 rpm, my regular Festool track saw has a top RPM of 4,400 rpm.

Given the cost, It is probably worth a punt.

 

[equitum]

I did my bathroom tiles which were huge 1200x600. I bought the festool above and a guide second hand was like new for about £300 iirc. with the intention of selling it. Brilliant tool which cuts dry so you can cut indoors if you like . Dust extraction (I hooked it up to an upright Dyson worked a treat) you can plunge cut with it too . Never sold it it’s so good. Basically it’s a 4” angle grinder on a guide plate . I also cut all the mitres on a wet room floor with it the edges were so straight and clean you can get a 1mm cut with it

 

[opps]

I did my bathroom tiles which were huge 1200x600. I bought the festool above and a guide second hand was like new for about £300 iirc. with the intention of selling it. Brilliant tool which cuts dry so you can cut indoors if you like . Dust extraction (I hooked it up to an upright Dyson worked a treat) you can plunge cut with it too . Never sold it it’s so good. Basically it’s a 4” angle grinder on a guide plate . I also cut all the mitres on a wet room floor with it the edges were so straight and clean you can get a 1mm cut with it

Thanks for the feedback.

Did you need to clamp the guide rail? In the Festool videos, they don't seem to use clamps.

IIRC I paid about £300 2nd hand but it looked almost new. I already have 4 festool guide rails.

 

[equitum]

No didn’t clamp the rail it’s got a rubberised base seemed to stay put. I just got a thick piece of ply and set the depth to very slightly over the tile depth and just cut the tiles on the floor on the ply.

 

[opps]

No didn’t clamp the rail it’s got a rubberised base seemed to stay put. I just got a thick piece of ply and set the depth to very slightly over the tile depth and just cut the tiles on the floor on the ply.

Thanks. When cutting doors, I always clamp the guide rail, at some point I will try the tile saw without clamping. Thanks for the feedback though.

I intend to keep the (unused) tile saw. I have never purchased a turkey from Festool. Their products are often expensive, but in most cases the design justifies the cost.

 

[equitum]

Well do whatever you think is best mate, just giving my experience and advice take it or leave it

 

[opps]

Well do whatever you think is best mate, just giving my experience and advice take it or leave it

I wasn't doubting your experience. I was simply stating that in my experience thick items such as doors need clamps.

I was pleased to read that you don't use the clamps for the tiles. It makes life much easier. Having to clamp each and every tile would be a pain. It would also require the use of a workmate given the height of the clamps (which clamp to the underside of the material being clamped).

I am genuinely grateful for your feedback/experience.

 

[equitum]

Yes no problem I didn’t mean to sound abrupt. Too much wine !