Tiling onto chipboard

[jctilingservices]

you are totally INCORRECT about the tiles eventually falling off, unless you are talking about in years to come. NOT if they are fixed correctly and the bath surround is well braced.

i have actually done this type of bath about 4 yrs ago, using 12mm wbp ply and 12mm plasterboard, this was done for my mother and its still as good today as it was when first done mate,

Sorry I disagree & you missed a bit off; what I said was that if the back of the PLY is not SEALED it will absorb moisture, expand & curl towards the front & even the most expensive adhesive/grout will struggle to cope with that; in all probability it will crack.

BAL even recommends sealing the underside of ply floors before they are laid so there is no chance of the moisture being absorbed through the back & curling the floor. Maybe a slight overkill on the floor but belt & braces, it depends on local circumstances & how damp the ambient environment is.

As far as I'm concerned PB has no place anywhere around a bath or shower unless it’s tanked & if that PB panel has lasted 4 years then you’ve been extreamly lucky, is the bath acrually used
Ply is also ill advised for the above reason & it's just not worth the risk, tile backer board every time.

Question for ya mate,
How long have you actually been a tiler? or are you a bathroom fitter ?
for 1 thing i NEVER said that the boards were not sealed, and what do you think we used in the late 70s early 80s for that kind of job.
Yes the bath gets used regularly as well as the shower.If you read my post above you will see that i said it was tanked, and extremely lucky has nothing to do with it, if a jobs done correctly,it will last and last very well indeed

 

[jctilingservices]

I see your tanking kit is 'plasterboard colour'


Tell me, why the slither? It might have been avoided if you didn't install the unnecessary ledge on the Bath Panel.

Give me a shout if you want a tip on getting the finished panel recessed slightly

No mate, read the post properly, tank 1/2 an hour before tiling, so its a case basically of tanking each wall in turn as soon as you finished tiling the previous wall,so where you can see plasterboard is where it aint been tanked.

What slither? do you mean the top edge of the bath? if so the pic is slightly misleading, wherein the edge you can actually see is approx 100mm wide, but thats the way my mother and father wanted it,so thats the way i done it for them,
dont think i will want to recess the panel as they are talking about putting the house up for sale and moving to a bungalow, But thanks for the offer anyway.

 

[JohnD]

how do you take the panel off when you need to get at the trap or the taps?

 

[Richard C]

Question for ya mate,
How long have you actually been a tiler? or are you a bathroom fitter ?

I will admit it’s not something I’ve been doing all my life as you have, only 4 years or so; but I don’t really see how that’s relevant. I prefer to do complete renovations if I can, the higher spec the better as far as I’m concerned; sanitary ware, power showers, all the necessary plumbing & even external drain works but always buy in the electrics.
I also plaster (6 years now) either skim or full float & set but, again, just renovations not new builds.

for 1 thing i NEVER said that the boards were not sealed, and what do you think we used in the late 70s early 80s for that kind of job.

Things have moved on a bit since then; you wouldn’t believe the state of some of the plasterboard walls I pull down, some only 2/3 years old, hence I will never use it in wet areas unless it’s tanked. I prefer to use waterproof backer board given the choice, the cost difference is minimal when you factor in the tanking for PB & it’s always my preferred option; it’s pretty standard practice for the enlightened these days if you want it to last. Properly done using the correct, materials a refurb should last at least 10 years, even 20 years or more without falling apart at the seams.

Yes the bath gets used regularly as well as the shower. If you read my post above you will see that it said it was tanked, and extremely lucky has nothing to do with it, if a jobs done correctly, it will last and last very well indeed

I was originally reefing to the use of ply, I didn’t realise you’d used plasterboard until I saw your pic. I didn’t say yours wasn’t tanked, I said it must be tanked; it’s certainly not tanked in the photo & did you do the back? Sorry m8 but using PB for a bath panel is a really bad idea; get any water in there & it’s going to crumble like wet chalk; even Moisture Resistant will eventually give it up if continually exposed. Ply would be better but that will also give problems if the backs not sealed & it absorbes moisture, as I said. Tile backer boards, even just the moisture resistant variety, remain dimensionally stable when wet & are the perfect solution.

 

[acrabbe]

Hello,

I've been following your advice and have built out the frame as recommended and it looks fine to me. I prefer to use Hardibacker board.

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• acrabbe
• 19 Nov 2009
• 1

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• acrabbe
• 19 Nov 2009
• 1

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• acrabbe
• 19 Nov 2009
• 1

Could you please advise me as to the best course of action in using HardiBacker board to line the splash-back surround area to the side and end of my bath with the new bathroom I'm constructing.

Hopefully, you can see from my attached photographs that the wall is boarded (dot-and-dabbed onto a thermal blocked cavity wall and already plastered and dried out walls - the plaster is sound, clean and flat).

In these areas I would like to adhere the backer board to the plastered surface. I do not wish to remove the new plasterwork and I do not have the room to bring out the bath to put battens behind to support the HardiBacker board other than enough to fit a maximum of the 12mm board and adhesive beading behind it (i.e. a recommended waterproof 'tubed' adhesive I could apply with a tube gun by hand).

In short :-

Q. can I 'glue and/or screw' to fix the backer boards then seal the joins in the recommended way (this is by far my preferred option, as I want to use HardiBacker, but do not want remove brand new plaster to budget reasons)?

Q. Can you recommend an appropriate waterproof product to do this (such as waterproof Sikaflex EBT)?

Q. Could I use the 6m backer board with this strips of vertical battens (screwed into the existing plastered wall) to do the same job?

Q. Can I thinly dot-and-dab the Hardiboard to the existing plaster?

Weight-wise, I will not be tiling with heavy tiles, just standard size ones.

Additionally, I'll be using HardiBacker board around the from of the bath suite (the chipboard is there for illustrative purposes only and will be removed, so I can properly board onto the solid beamed frame behind.

You professional advice is greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks.

 

[Richard C]

PB wouldn’t have been my chosen method but as it’s already up there & it’s plastered as well, I don’t see any advantage in fixing backer boards over it. Your just creating more work & expense for little or no gain in terms of water proofing; you may as well just tank the area & tile straight onto that.

 

[tictic]

1.12mm b/boards are only designed for stud work not dot/dab.
2.6mm b/boards are for floors.
3. with your plastered walls they will only take 20kg per m2 including addy/grout.

i would suggest you tank around bath area with ditra/durabase or homelux matting system will cost you about £50-£80 using a flexi bagged addy not tubbed addy.
if you dedcide to go as i said, prime walls with bal apd or sbr.

 

[acrabbe]

Thanks all for your opinions and guidance.

As I'm learning all this stuff, I hope you don't mind me asking if you can enlighten me with the acronyms

Please clarify: -

tank

addy

bal apd or sbr

flexi bagged addy or tubbed addy

Sorry for the request, but my area of expertise is IT not tiling so I'm in unfamiliar territory. Half of them mean something else to me.

Many Thanks, once again.

 

[tictic]

http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/

click products mate and have a butchers..

for tanking try ...
ditra webpage
dura webpage
homelux webpage

you will want the matting system.

 

[tictic]

you could also try
mapei.
ardex.
topps.
websites

happy hunting.......

 

[tictic]

also forgot to say go onto youtube type in "wall an floor tanking" and you will be able to see a video of how it is all installed then you will have more of an idea of whats involved mate...

 

[GaryMo]

Tell me, why the slither? It might have been avoided if you didn't install the unnecessary ledge on the Bath Panel.

Give me a shout if you want a tip on getting the finished panel recessed slightly

I'm open to suggestions as I'll be looking to fit a tiled side to my bath early next year.

 

[stardanny]

how do you take the panel off when you need to get at the trap or the taps?

To the OP, you still haven't answer this.

Tiles bathpanel without access is a nightmare. I did on in a HA house and the bathroom is fully tiles to ceiling and tiles on bathpanel. There was no access to taps, trap. Water was leaking from a waste fitting under the bath and the only way is to break through it to repair it. They have no spare tiles to replace it, it's their problem. They done the tiles and no access for plumbers.

Always fit a access panel.

Dan