Toilet Seat Replacement

[footprints]

Is there a makers mark on the pan its self? Best place to start for a replacement.

 

[Chimaira1985]

Is there a makers mark on the pan its self? Best place to start for a replacement.

All I can see is Roca no model .

I shall do a google search and see what I find.

Thank you

 

[DavidSWP]

I would really advise to try and find the exact same make and model of toilet seat that was originally on it to replace it with - it looks like a good design like you see in a lot of hotels and commercial settings for a reason - that design is robust. I believe it's a 'CONCEALED HINGE' toilet seat where the hinge mechanism is inside the toilet seat and the pivot arms are concealed and parallel with the back of the toilet/wall rather than hinges with pivot arms that are at 90 degrees compared to the back/wall. In my experience you will rarely get a good result with a 'Universal' fit toilet seat. The typical ones you can buy all have the hinge types with pivot arms that are exposed and at 90 degrees from the back of the toilet/wall. Some have a bar across (bar type) or 2 individual ones either side with 2 pivot arms (one for the seat one for the lid). They typically do not work well and don't tend to firmly hold the toilet seat in place well. They are also very prone to corrosion. If you go for an 'exposed hinge/pivot arm' toilet seat type, do not consider any other material than Stainless Steel (unless you can afford a strong gold alloy or other nonreactive metal such as titanium). Do not touch anything that says 'chrome' or even 'corrosion resistant' (its ******). Solid Brass is kinda ok.

If you still intend to get a different type of toilet seat than the one removed you will also need to remove the metal bits from the 2 holes either side that you still have left from under the brackets All seats that I have seen require 2 holes. I can't see from that picture how you remove the metal bits but presume they can be removed easily. Best check though, stuff on toilet seats that is designed to be easy to remove can be rusted very tight. Sometimes its better to replace the entire toilet.

As other people have said, if you still want to get a different 'universal' toilet seat you need a top fitting toilet seat unlike most where you can access the underside of the hole and fit with a rubber bung and a wingnut. I have replaced the 3 toilet seats in my house and they were a real faff. The most expensive one was the worst (Imperial Bathrooms solid oak £200 job) great looking but the hinges were rubbish and broke after 6 months. Roper Rhodes are the best I found in terms of holding the seat in place well but even their corrosion resistant hinges are prone to corrosion and the hinges still suffer from movement problems. If I could do it again I would look to a seat design like you removed but in solid wood for aesthetic reasons, I have never seen such a thing though.

In short, replace the seat with the same type or replace the toilet.

 

[Chimaira1985]

I would really advise to try and find the exact same make and model of toilet seat that was originally on it to replace it with - it looks like a good design like you see in a lot of hotels and commercial settings for a reason - that design is robust. I believe it's a 'CONCEALED HINGE' toilet seat where the hinge mechanism is inside the toilet seat and the pivot arms are concealed and parallel with the back of the toilet/wall rather than hinges with pivot arms that are at 90 degrees compared to the back/wall. In my experience you will rarely get a good result with a 'Universal' fit toilet seat. The typical ones you can buy all have the hinge types with pivot arms that are exposed and at 90 degrees from the back of the toilet/wall. Some have a bar across (bar type) or 2 individual ones either side with 2 pivot arms (one for the seat one for the lid). They typically do not work well and don't tend to firmly hold the toilet seat in place well. They are also very prone to corrosion. If you go for an 'exposed hinge/pivot arm' toilet seat type, do not consider any other material than Stainless Steel (unless you can afford a strong gold alloy or other nonreactive metal such as titanium). Do not touch anything that says 'chrome' or even 'corrosion resistant' (its ******). Solid Brass is kinda ok.

If you still intend to get a different type of toilet seat than the one removed you will also need to remove the metal bits from the 2 holes either side that you still have left from under the brackets All seats that I have seen require 2 holes. I can't see from that picture how you remove the metal bits but presume they can be removed easily. Best check though, stuff on toilet seats that is designed to be easy to remove can be rusted very tight. Sometimes its better to replace the entire toilet.

As other people have said, if you still want to get a different 'universal' toilet seat you need a top fitting toilet seat unlike most where you can access the underside of the hole and fit with a rubber bung and a wingnut. I have replaced the 3 toilet seats in my house and they were a real faff. The most expensive one was the worst (Imperial Bathrooms solid oak £200 job) great looking but the hinges were rubbish and broke after 6 months. Roper Rhodes are the best I found in terms of holding the seat in place well but even their corrosion resistant hinges are prone to corrosion and the hinges still suffer from movement problems. If I could do it again I would look to a seat design like you removed but in solid wood for aesthetic reasons, I have never seen such a thing though.

In short, replace the seat with the same type or replace the toilet.

Thank you for the response, I am in contact with Roca trying to work out which seat is required

 

[Newboy]

Any use?

http://www.uk.roca.com/catalogue/products/#!/wcs

http://www.uk.roca.com/catalogue/products/#!/wcs/wc-seats-covers

 

[Chimaira1985]

Any use?

http://www.uk.roca.com/catalogue/products/#!/wcs

http://www.uk.roca.com/catalogue/products/#!/wcs/wc-seats-covers

Thank you.

I got there in the end

It was the gap, I ordered the gap shape and fitted and now it's all good.

Thank you for all the advice

 

[empip]

If it isn't broken, source a replacement or a decent plan before tearing apart.

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