It can be applied direct to rust, but it won't stop it.......nothing will, but a rust converter will put off the inevitable for some time.
It's just fine for what you want.
John
No actual need to suspend them, if using a plastic barrel, and you could do one end, then the other.
All that is needed, is the two metal parts, to be insulated one from the other, making the water solution the only conductive path. +ve connected to your 'sacrificial' anode, the electrons flow from -ve/ your ramps, along with the rust, to the anode.
The process works best, across the shortest path between the two metals, so worthwhile rotating your cathode (ramps), 180 degrees in the solution, at half-time.
Once done, your sound metal remains, and all the rust is gone. One improvement I found worthwhile, was to add a 12v bulb in series with one of the battery connections, just in case your two lumps of metal, happen to make contact.
I appreciate your explanation, but I won't go that route, (no tub big enough, no 20A charger)
I have removed all loose rust with severe power wire brushing.
I will apply a rust converter, and then 2 coats of Hammerite.
My, possibly incorrect, interpretation of "loose rust" is not rust that simply comes off when you run a dusting brush over it but rust that will come off if you run sandpaper over it.
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