Trianco Contractor Combi 110 HE not firing

[Burnerman]

On a couple of occasions, a knackered EBI has taken out the control box too - why I've no idea.
John

 

[not_a_plumber]

Okay, just fitted a new EBI and still no spark.

So, I have fitted new; photocell, control box and EBI.

Oil still getting though as blast tube is wet.

The only thing left is to replace electrodes and HT leads, is this correct?

 

[not_a_plumber]

Update: It's a knackered electrode block. I get loads of spark when I put the HT leads close to each other.

Will confirm tomorrow when it arrives.

 

[Burnerman]

Is the spark occurring between the cables themselves?
John

 

[not_a_plumber]

No, just at the terminals. I washed the cables and inspected very closely and there is no sign of damage. I do wish I had inspected the electrode this closely when it first broke! I do however have a boiler with a few nice new components and do understand a little better as to how they work.

 

[not_a_plumber]

Out of curiosity, I reattached the electrode block to the HT leads, but the electrode block was not attached to the burner nor were the HT leads going thru the holes of the burner and it sparks.

After I reattached the electrode block to the burner it no longer sparks. I swapped the leads around (the end that was in transformer I put into electrode and vice-versa) and exactly the same.

I wrapped insulating tape around the HT leads between transformer and burner and no change.

There is a little red rubber washer that fits between electrodes and burner has a split in it, so I covered that in insulating tape too and no change.

The electrode block is looking worse for wear, scorched black lines etc. so maybe it's leaking electricity somewhere. I cannot see it arcing anywhere.

New electrode block not arriving till monday.

I do have some single malt whisky waiting for me though, so that's good!

 

[Burnerman]

Like you say, it would seem that the electrode block is leaking to the burner metalwork....I’ve seen a few with cracked ceramics, and a few that have been so poorly set they have sparked onto the nozzle itself or blast tube.
Have you the electrode setting diagram so you can set the block up accurately?
Enjoy the ‘wee dram’ or 6!
John

 

[not_a_plumber]

No, I don't have an electrode setting diagram. It's one of these: https://imgur.com/cKFe9mg If it was incorrectly set, I guess it wouldn't spark when not attached to burner.

I do hate not understanding stuff like this!

Thank you, yes I will do my best!

 

[Burnerman]

The electrode tips are usually 2 or 3mm behind the front of the nozzle on average, so when the fan starts it blows the spark into the oil spray.
Be in touch!
John

 

[BoilerBob]

Nice to see it sorted. Bob

 

[not_a_plumber]

Replacement electrode block fitted, boiler fires. Almost happy days....

However, it now smokes really badly which it didn't before it broke.

I removed the baffles, brushed and vacuumed them and it hasn't improved it. Must have had it running for an hour and no improvement.

Regardless of whether I increase or decrease the air, it still smokes. So, my question is this:

• When I adjust the air, should I see the change in smoke immediately or does it take a few minutes?
• Does smoking imply too much or too little air?
• What other components could be faulty it causing it to smoke?

Than you once again.

 

[Terrywookfit]

Initial Air adjustment should be made in conjunction with a smoke pump... to prevent killing FGA

Too much or too little will cause poor combustion and smoking.

Faulty nozzle, incorrect oil pressure, impingement due to head set up wrongly. Fuel.

 

[not_a_plumber]

I got a heating engineer in and I am pleased I did. I had set the electrode block incorrectly.

He also serviced it.. it has never sounded so good.

I got told off for messing with it!

Solved!

 

[Burnerman]

I imagine he also took the time to set the oil pressure and then do a CO2 analysis at the same time?
Incorrectly set electrodes usually give either a no start or a noisy (whump!) start up......once the thing is alight, it stays that way and shouldn’t affect smoke production.
Anyway, its great to learn about these things and you are finally sorted!
Cheers for the update.
John

 

[not_a_plumber]

Yes, he did. The oil pressure had been set (not by me I) to double what it should be. He also fitted the correct nozel after the last chap that came out, fitted the wrong one. He also replaced the braided oil pipe, he showed me the previous and the rubber was perished.

Hopefully have found an engineer I trust, the last 3 were; a rip-off, didn't seem to have a clue and finally, seemed to be doing it as a hobby!