tricky floor project

[Trazor]

I'm sure they've tested it.

Which means you have not, and have no experience of it.

 

[dextrous]

I struggle to see, from the manufacturer's website and pdf download, how squirting some adhesive (not even going for a full covering according to the MI's ) will make it rigid. The only thing that would be rigid at 6mm and strong enough would be a cast iron plate!

 

[joe-90]

I'm sure they've tested it.

Which means you have not, and have no experience of it.

I've used it no probs. Better than ply.

 

[joe-90]

What's all this gcol is an old un, gcol is a dinosaur business. Been listening to than Jefoss methinks.
I'm not old dammit, I'm not!!!!!!

Your methods are locked into the 70s and 80s. You've never moved on.

 

[jefoss]

What's all this gcol is an old un, gcol is a dinosaur business. Been listening to than Jefoss methinks.
I'm not old dammit, I'm not!!!!!!

when Jef speaks the lowly listen!

 

[Richard C]

I would also use ply. I too would be concerned about flexing around that beam if you rebate the 25mm ply to the extent mentioned. I normally prefer to rip up & replace rather than overboard but in your case, it’s probably the best option in one form or another. One way of doing it would be to replace the existing floorboards with WBP the same thickness as the boards (as long as there is no chance it will be below the beam) & then over board the lot with a reduced thickness ply overboard to save you a little height.

If you do overboard, screw fix through into the joists & not just into the top of the floorboards; but watch out for any pipes. Use the minimum number of joints & support any you have down the centre line of a joist; also make sure you position the over board so that there is no join ½ metre either side of that beam if you can.

I love Aquapanel but I wouldn’t use it on a floor.