Triton Rapide 4 shower - not latching on.

that was an example, not a diagnosis.
An example of something that has nothing to do with this shower fault.

it may be a faulty sensor not registering water flow
Do you mean a microswitch, which can be tested to see if it's makes and breaks contact?

Why would you buy a new shower if a microswitch is faulty?

might be a faulty thermal sensor making the pcb think that it's overheated and again not latching a relay etc..
Do you mean the thermal cut-out switch, which can be tested to see if it's open circuit?

Why would you buy a new shower if a thermal cut-out switch is faulty?
 
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Jeez, just put a new shower in and be done with it.

Why don't you for once try giving some helpul advice. :rolleyes:
 
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I rest my case.
:idea: In that case my helpful advice is that you pick up your case and move it to a less obstructive position.

Under the stairs and on top of a wardrobe are favourite places with many people, and are out of the way enough to avoid the case becoming a trip hazard.
 
maybe my outlook is coloured by my mainly industrial background and the fact that I've never had to repair anything that's relatively cheap.. if the tea urn broke down, we could have ordered a new thermostat or element for it but the works just got a new one..
if the rather complex CNC bender broke down then we had to fix it as buying a new one would be close to £100K...
I've also so far never had to repair a shower.. I've changed 2 but that's what the family friends wanted.. new showers as the old ones were over 15 years old and rather naff..
 
I've decided not to replace the whole shower, house and town with a new one, and think this could be easily fixable at a low cost. The power PCB contains 3 relays and a few other minor odds and sods and is very simple. The control PCB contains a couple of 4025 NOR gate ICs, a few BC337 transistors, some resistors, the buttons and LEDs. Even if I replaced all the components (the relays might be a bit tricky to find), they'd probably cost less than a tenner, and I've probably got some of them in my parts boxes.

It's just a case of tracking down what's faulty when I get a spare moment. Though having a circuit diagram to hand would save me a lot of time, as deriving it from the PCB can be a bit of a faff (though it is single sided, so not difficult). There's no clearly fried components, so it might just be a dry joint. Given that this fault briefly cropped up a month or so ago, then went away, that's what I'm suspecting.
 
I've found dry joints on the power board before, and successfully repaired them, and you seem confident and competent to work on those PCBs, so I wish you every success.

If you do find any circuit diagrams I'd be very interested in getting copies - I've previously tried to get them in the past but never got anyhere. Triton tend to say that they don't have any, but someone at Triton must have designed the boards before they got them manufactured.
 
I gave some of the solder blobs a bit of a resolder, though most did look fine. Put it all back together, and it worked! So either a dry joint, or a flakey connection on the ribbon cable. Quite a hassle free job in the end, and cost nothing.
 
Oh come off it - you can't fool us. You moved house, didn't you :D
 
I have it on good authority that he didn't - he just built a new bathroom and filled the old one with 35,000l of potting compound.
 
Hm. Which method would he need to use to de-rate any cables passing through the compost?
 

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