Triton Topaz t100si doesn't heat water

[testsubject12]

Hi,

I've got a bit of a problem with my ol Triton t100si.

Because of the cold weather the pipe feeding the shower in the loft froze so no water was getting to the shower unit.

I tried the shower a couple of times and so did the wife and the kids.

The shower would start up and then give the "LP" and auto shutdown.

I put more insulation around the pipe and put a heater in the loft to defrost the pipe, which worked a treat.

The shower now functions "normally" apart from the water never gets hot, only 6-9 C on the display. Switching from Full to ECO to cold ocasionally triggers "NC" to display on the unit, but this doesn't seem consistent with some of the faults people report.

After doing some research I believe the Safety cut-out was triggered by the unit trying to heat the small volume of water constantly.

Does this seem plausable to the experienced plumbers and engineers on here?

Cheers

Paul

Happy New year

 

[jj4091]

Do you have access to a multi meter to check if it is conducting or open circuit?

 

[testsubject12]

Do you have access to a multi meter to check if it is conducting or open circuit?

I've asked around at work and i'm getting my hands on one tomorrow.

Does it seem likely that this is the cause as the shower was put under pressure/stress because of the frozen pipe and the can re-heating hot water a few times?

I've removed the TCO so that I can test it easily, must say they didn't make it easy as one of the screws is obscured by the plastic surrounding the circuit board.

A non-reset TCO seems to be a great idea to keep the spare parts industry going, these appear to be fitted all over the place, and I have read lots of posts about people having to replace 2/3 of them in the lifetime of the device.

The bottom of the TCO has a brass look with the letters TOD-TOD B1-B1- etched/burned into the surface, is this right?

cheers

Paul

 

[riveralt]

Do you have access to a multi meter to check if it is conducting or open circuit?

I've asked around at work and i'm getting my hands on one tomorrow.

Does it seem likely that this is the cause as the shower was put under pressure/stress because of the frozen pipe and the can re-heating hot water a few times?

I've removed the TCO so that I can test it easily, must say they didn't make it easy as one of the screws is obscured by the plastic surrounding the circuit board.

A non-reset TCO seems to be a great idea to keep the spare parts industry going, these appear to be fitted all over the place, and I have read lots of posts about people having to replace 2/3 of them in the lifetime of the device.

The bottom of the TCO has a brass look with the letters TOD-TOD B1-B1- etched/burned into the surface, is this right?

cheers

Paul

I take it you have looked at this site and the videos etc..

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-31-Triton-Topaz-T100i

 

[seco services]

NC fault is a display thermistor.

 

[testsubject12]

NC fault is a display thermistor.

I only managed to get the NC to flash up a couple of times when I had been messing with the pipe feeding the pressure switch that ?triggers the display thermistor? (not entirely sure of my terminology here) and the shower seems to run normally, all be it cold if I leave it alone and go through normal oporations.

 

[testsubject12]

fingers crossed that the TCO is dead tomorrow

 

[testsubject12]

Just a couple of pictures

With the cover off

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• testsubject12
• 5 Jan 2011
• 1

The TCO

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• testsubject12
• 5 Jan 2011
• 2

Anything unusual?

 

[seco services]

ok.
check the tco tomorrow see what that comes back as.
and thats a 2 stage tco.

 

[testsubject12]

Getting carried away now

I have removed the TCO from the unit so I can take it to work tomorrow.

This is the bottom of the TCO with the thermal grease wiped away, here you can make out the letters I posted about earlier, is this a sign that it's been triggered?

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• testsubject12
• 5 Jan 2011
• 2

This is the top with the circuit board connector still attached.

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• testsubject12
• 5 Jan 2011
• 2

That's it I promise....

 

[seco services]

don't look like it has, bit hard to see but the silver plate useally go's in when activated.

don't press it or it will be knackered.
new one retail about £15

 

[testsubject12]

don't look like it has, bit hard to see but the silver plate useally go's in when activated.

don't press it or it will be knackered.
new one retail about £15

Might of knacketed it when wiping the thermal grease then as it did depress slightly but came back out again? We will see....

 

[testsubject12]

well as suspected it failed the continuity test....

Why don't triton use a resetable TCO?? they could include a reset button on the circuit board as it's almost fraud as resetable TCO's have been around for years.

How do they work, after it failed the continuity test we dunked it in a a boiling cup of water and it deformed in and then after it cooled down it clicked back out flat. Does anyone know what it does inside that make it a permanent break?

I have ordered one so should have it in the next few days and I'll let you know how I get on.

 

[seco services]

Why don't triton use a resetable TCO?? they could include a reset button on the circuit board as it's almost fraud as resetable TCO's have been around for years.

they are resettable on the first stage but if you activate the second stage it's not.

 

[bernardgreen]

Why don't triton use a resetable TCO?? they could include a reset button on the circuit board as it's almost fraud as resetable TCO's have been around for years.

Before fitting the new thermal trip take a good look at the pipe work in the unit. There may be damage to pipes and/ or water carrying components.

As Seco says they reset on the first trip point 85 degrees C as an indication of in-suffiicent water flow which only means the water is far too hot but no damage will have been done to the pipe work. ( the fact that some may have been scolded is not part of the safety of the unit )

The second and permanent trip is at 100 degrees C and occurs when there is no water flow and the water trapped in the heat exchanger could have been boiling. Steam pressure created can cause damage to the heat exchanger, pipework and components inside the unit.

If the unit was frozen when the heating element was switched on the pipe work to the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger could remain frozen and blocked while water around the element was boiling. That steam would have no escape route so pressure could become high enough to damage the heat exchanger.