Triton Topaz t100si doesn't heat water

[testsubject12]

Hi,

Thanks for the warning....

The unit wasn't frozen it was only the pipework in the loft, I think that the unit is free of leaks as you can run it normally and it doesn't leak just no hot water.

In the pictures you can see the top of the can, I can't see any physical damage so hopefully it's ok.

If it still doesn't work after the new TCO is fitted I might have to get Triton after all as a new heater unit will cost £60+ and at least the callout will fix it for a little more

 

[seco services]

yes triton callout £90

 

[canduit]

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• testsubject12
• 5 Jan 2011
• 1

It would also help a lot if you clean out the scale from the trap, (and the shower head.) Bottom left of pic, phillips screwdriver and GENTLE persuasion with pliers. I have to do this every 2 months or so. And if you don't have the right showerhead pressure will be rubbish.

 

[testsubject12]

Lol yes I have already cleaned the scale trap as it was so shockingly bad

I will admit this is the 1st time since comission.

I currently have a non-standard shower head but things are fine on most of the settings.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[testsubject12]

Final update....

So received the spare part this am via the posty, checked the continuity and all was good...the little disk of thermal sensitive sheet metal was really loose in this TCO, but what the hell I need the shower fixed now!

Disassembled the unit again and got the part in eventually, the design of this shower doesn't lend it's self to easy access to the top of the can, must be the lovely oval shape of the outer case leaving the internals a little tight for space.

Re-assembled the components making sure all spade connectors are on tight and I put everything back in place. Last screw holding the can went down the plug hole, not to worry have a spare .

(How may of the pro's out there can honestly say they never drop screws down the plug hole)

Turned water back on and flushed the system with the controls disconnected.

Re-connected control unit (with power off) and then tried the unit.....lovely hot water.

As a bonus all the tinkering means that 35-41 C is achievable with the 1st 3 segments where it used to be right at the top with a max temp of 41.

The moral of this story is......if you lose the water supply to the shower, DON'T keep trying the shower!!!!

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[bernardgreen]

(How may of the pro's out there can honestly say they never drop screws down the plug hole)

DIYers ( with experience ) always put the plug in the plug hole...

 

[PaulDearden]

As I found this forum useful and friendly , I'm adding to the 'fund' with this:
My problem was low water temperature, around 30C, I replaced the two large solenoid switches that supply the heaters as I found cleaning the contacts produced a very temporary solution each time I did it, I then replaced the electrolytic capacitors. Neither of these actions solved the problem. What did sove the problem though was replacing the large, rectangular RFI capacitor. During my many head scratching sessions a circuit diagram would have been useful so eventually I made one, of sorts and here it is, I hope it is found useful.

PS. The shower has worked fine for several months now but recently the blue illumination flickered a few times and ceased to work, the red illumination still works as necessary, and as all other functions are ok I'll try to solve the sadly missed blue light later.

Happy New Year,

Paul

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• PaulDearden
• 10 Jan 2015
• 1